When it comes right down to it, Riesling is the one wine I won't give up; boxes of it will accompany me to the desert island. I'll forswear Chardonnay in a trice, white Pinot gets jettisoned next, even lovely Gewürztraminer's in the alley–Riesling stays right here where I can get at it.

There's just so much that can be done with it–from crisp, bright sparkler to hearty, fruity dinner companion to stylish, aerobic, dry-finished version to elegant late-harvest model to luscious, lifetime-lasting icewine. Particularly those; while I'm always ready, in the interest of research, to taste an experimental one produced from other grape varieties, Riesling icewine remains the apotheosis of the craft.

Cave Spring Riesling 2005 Reserve ($24.99) This has put in only a brief appearance in B.C. on the woefully limited Ontario shelf, a pity since its only negative is cost: too high for daily pleasures. Ah, but a beautiful Riesling–rich and full, through-fruited from a front-palate tease of sweetness to an ultra-smooth, super-long finish. A specialty listing, it won't be in every store.

Lang Farm Winery Reserve Riesling 2005 ($15.90) This excellent-value wine is among the more unusual Okanagan Rieslings, from a producer that knows this grape inside out, all along the sweetness spectrum. "Bold lime, apple, and melon", it's finished off dry (pairing magnificently with sweet and sour pork, or garlic-sizzled tenderloin in the Portuguese style). Don't be misled by the pale colour–it bursts in the mouth, all Riesling at first and then some surprising flash-of-green edges resulting in a tart, intense finish (and no diesel anywhere). It's a great food wine. How about grilled halibut with sorrel and tarragon, finished with a splash of cream?

Orofino Riesling 2006 ($18, when it was available; there are restaurants around town carrying some of the original 220-case production) Despite the fact it's sold out, I did promise some weeks ago I'd reference this one. The alcohol, fairly high for Riesling at 13.8 percent, surprised me, but it didn't hamper any of the wine's stellar qualities. Rich fruit aromas begin, then there's a lime-peach-mango triple hit to the tongue. This is a new, uniquely Similkameen Valley style of Riesling; it may be the best new B.C. Riesling since Roger Wong's sensational Focus of 2002. The Webers are wizards with this grape. Get your supply early when the next vintage is released.

See Ya Later Ranch Riesling 2006 ($13.99) From the South Okanagan's See Ya Later Ranch label comes stylish fruit, round and ripe, with a little bite of acidity and a touch of citric. Well harmonized and chameleonlike as a food wine, it'll add softness to something spicy, stir-fried, or braised, and contribute a hint of rich sweetness to a creamy pasta dish or cheese-laden eggplant-pepper casserole. Known farther and wider for its intriguing reds (Pinot 3, Ping, and Jimmy My Pal), SYL adds an excellent-value sleeper to its portfolio.

Peller Estates Heritage Riesling 2006 ($12.49) Hey, they don't all work, alas. This has price going for it but not much else. It's sugary on the palate, the fruit is short, and the acid is not that well integrated. There's too much keen competition in the B.C. Riesling category for this to rank above adequate.

Tantalus Riesling 2006 ($19.90, at the Rieslings-only winery near Kelowna, and selected VQA stores) For my palate, this is the disappointment of the vintage. I doubt they're worried, since the Old Vines version of this (five bucks a bottle more) exhausted the critics' store of superlatives; even Jancis Robinson proclaimed it one of the top 10 Canadian wines. Tantalus is the phoenix of the old Pinot Reach winery, where the aforementioned Roger Wong created some truly remarkable whites. In its new configuration, not even the gorgeous Native mask on the label can hide the fact that this is ordinary at best: short, skimpy fruit, big acid, and little charm. Still, if you read the reviews on-line you'll see an outpouring of purple prose in its favour. I just see a streak of imperial nudity.

Jackson-Triggs Proprietors' Reserve Dry Riesling 2006 ($13.99) This is pretty darn good dry Riesling; the label suggests "smoked poultry", and somewhere I have a really good Ukrainian smoked-turkey recipe. The label writer also suggests "ethnic or Asian specialties". The fruit is big and fresh, and the dry finish isn't so perverse as to make the mouth pucker. It just slides along the palate to a bright, sparkly conclusion.

Quails' Gate Dry Riesling 2006 ($16.99) The three dollars above the J-T are money well spent. Very dry, very tart, very fruity, very French–luscious in the mouth, but super dry in the finish, all slate and lime and green-gold glints shooting across the palate. There seems to be a renaissance going on in the winemaking at QG these days; soon to come in this corner: a comparison of its reserve Chardonnays and Pinot Gris.

Jackson-Triggs Proprietors' Grand Reserve Riesling Icewine 2005 ($52.99 for 375 millilitres) Here's your reward: nine percent alcohol; deep golden colour; fantastic, unmistakable Riesling fruit; great depth; clean, easy, but assertive acidity; and a remarkable finish that leaves you smacking your lips and calling for another tiny tot. Well, if you can afford it, pour it.