Fare at George Ultra and Bacchus Piano Lounge goes with the flow

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      A murmur of conversation and laughter fills the room as patrons sip cool libations and graze on chicken satays. It's still early, and the drinks will keep flowing until fatigue sets in and guests start to think about making their way home. Lounges are for socializing over great cocktails, good food, and, especially, vibrant company. And food must be tailored for sharing over the drinks that take centre stage.

      At sleek George Ultra Lounge, the crowd is well-heeled and food- and drink-savvy. "We are in Yaletown, so things need to be somewhat trendy," says executive chef Jason Wilson during an afternoon chat at George.

       "Our clientele has a very good palate. They understand food and flavours. I try to create items that are recognizable but with a little upscale twist to them." For example, Wilson offers a burger that's a cut above, with AAA Alberta beef, Balderson Cheddar, triple-smoked bacon, and chipotle aioli.

      Some might want to keep the burger all to themselves, but most of Wilson's dishes are crafted for sharing–and for ease of eating in a packed but relaxed environment. "Finger food is better because it doesn't require a fork and knife. Because there is limited table space, we can't put a whole proper dinner setting in front of somebody," he explains.

      Pasta or a steak dinner would be unsuitable, because it would require cutlery and would be difficult to split among a group of friends.

      Instead, George serves dishes like Surf and Turf, that aren't involved, sit-down meals. "When you think of surf and turf, you usually think of steak and lobster. We're doing braised beef short ribs and a soya-ginger wild-prawn cocktail. They're finger-type food.

      The short ribs are not a steak that you have to eat with a knife and fork, but the dish is still a play off the surf and turf," says co-owner David Hannay at the lounge. Similarly, the grainy-mustard rack of lamb consists of 12 lamb "lollipops" that guests can easily hold and nibble on.

      All this nibbling, however, must not overpower the drinks. Cocktails, with their spices, infused alcohols, and freshly blended ingredients, have complex flavour combinations. The Season Five–muddled cardamom pods shaken with Bombay gin, Sauvignon Blanc, pink grapefruit, vanilla, and Campari–is almost an appetizer in itself because of its intense play with the taste buds. (For the recipe, see www.straight.com/.) "You don't want any dishes that are really spicy or flavourful. The drinks are the star of the show, so you don't want to take anything away from that experience," Wilson insists.

      Unlike wine, cocktails are not paired with specific dishes; instead, dishes are designed to complement any one of the concoctions. "You really want to taste the drink when you get it. I try to match my menu to the drinks by keeping the food at a lower profile on the flavour side," Wilson says.

      The chic clientele of George may require trendy drinks, but at Bacchus Piano Lounge, guests want more refined concoctions that suit the serene space. Its location in the Wedgewood Hotel, near the law courts, means that the cocktails are geared to a professional and polished demographic.

      "Drinks are very classic, with very classic ingredients. They're generally elegant cocktails. We're not into the shooters," says assistant manager Chris De Nofrio.

      Drinks, such as the Fifth Avenue, with apricot brandy, white crí¨me de cacao, and cream, are complemented by a food menu that balances light meals and shared plates.

      At Bacchus, executive chef Lee Parsons says that guests often come for late lunches or late dinners and order the hand-peeled-shrimp clubhouse or the grilled ahi tuna loin. However, "During cocktail hour, from 5 o'clock to 7:30, you see a lot more of the pizzas and the appetizer platters. People have a snack on the way home and then go home for something more substantial."

      Parsons says that the atmosphere and clientele dictate that his menu go beyond typical fare. "I think people's perceptions of lounge food is food out of the fryer, whether it be wings, onion rings, or fries. Our food has to fit the surroundings of the lounge and the hotel," he says.

      Pizza is on the menu but with more elegant toppings such as house-smoked salmon, capers, red onion, and goat's cheese. An appetizer platter contains Asian and European bites such as onion pakoras, tandoori chicken skewers, onion-and-chorizo pithiviers, and mushroom-and-truffle-risotto croquettes.

      Above all, Parsons says he offers food that furthers the main purpose of a lounge: socializing. "This is food that is very easy to eat," he says. "There is no formality. There are no elaborate place settings. It is easy on the mind. The focus is the social occasion. The food promotes interaction."

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