Slip into imaginative takes on the classic trench this fall or button up a smashing princess style.

The trench coat has been a wardrobe staple since its invention by Thomas Burberry in 1901. From the real deal worn by the British and French armies to today's Burberrys worn in every shade from navy to pink, there's been no turning back. We love a classic, yes, especially in a chilly city like Vancouver where the trench is an obvious year-rounder. But wait, fall-coat fanatics, the trench isn't the only show in town this fall.

Nothing instantly dresses up a casual outfit like a beautiful coat or warms the spirit like one thrown over the shoulders. It's a statement piece, often defining an outfit. With the new trend to refinement, this season's trench-inspired coats will also inject a high degree of elegance, instantly updating any wardrobe. While the traditional trench will always offer stability and dependability with its goes-with-everything approach, this season's coats enjoy a little bit more drama.

They're also decidedly feminine, with many elegant details that draw their inspiration more from 1940s Holly­wood glam than dirty trenches. The sexy silhouette is back, complete with ruffles, three-quarters or seven-eighths sleeves, and a full skirt. These coats are seriously grownup, but far from being conservative, they incorporate modern touches to keep them fresh and whimsical.

Khaki will always be the classic, but the options available now offer more creative expression and fashion-forward statements. Vancouver-based Chulo Pony, known for its unique and playful pieces, has designed a double-twill, naval trench coat ($278) that offers the best of both worlds. "With its pleated skirt and cinched waist combined with elements of the classic trench, it is a perfect blend of masculine/feminine tailoring," explains Crystal Heald, art director at Chulo Pony. The military look remains a strong influence, and precise detailing offers a juxtaposition to curvier silhouettes, making it the ideal modern package.

Chulo Pony does a clever play on a tiny trench with its cropped style, plus sly leather accents.

For those looking for the perfect topper to this season's fuller skirts or skinny pants, Chulo Pony offers a decadent cropped trench ($285). With a neckline sumptuously adorned with mounds of ruffles, this coat hits at the hips, with a leather belt to help accentuate the bombshell figure. The style strongly reinforces the retro-glam trend, while leather touches at the waist and cuffs add a couture dimension. (Chulo Pony is available at many local retailers; for a list, visit www.chulopony.com.)

Moulé (1994 West 4th Avenue) carries a military-inspired trench, offered by Ports 1961 this season, with gentler, curvier touches. It's a three-quarter trench in charcoal wool with decadent silk lining. The military edge is softened by volume throughout the coat and a mini cape draping over the top, emphasizing the hourglass figure.

So, you've got your perfect trench. Still above the knee, but along more flirty, princessy lines, Betsey Johnson's coats for this fall are highly wearable and gorgeously quintessential of her exuberant, feminine style. School of Charm is the designer's theme for her fall 2007 collection, decidedly playing on all that is polite, proper, and elegant. Ladylike incarnate, some coats may be paired with matching dresses, making the vision of '40s refinement complete.

The Betsey Johnson basic black coat ($555) is basic only in colour. Double-breasted in sateen, it has an almost demure look with pleated waist and a sweet Peter Pan collar with contrasting white lace overlay. Feeling more playful? The collection includes a '60s-inspired floral print in modern tones of chocolate brown, taupe, and cream ($580). This single-breasted coat has a gathered waist and contrasting collar and fold-back cuff.

The signature piece of this Betsey Johnson collection is the butterfly coat. Against a backdrop of pale cream, vivid oversize royal blue and purple monarch butterflies flit across the garment ($630). This striking piece "has been in great demand", confirm staff at the Vancouver Betsey Johnson store (1033 Alberni Street). It is single-breasted with a gathered waist, Peter Pan collar, and fold-back cuff. For those a little less adventurous, it comes in solid beige ($535), making it incredibly versatile and flirty.