Just three weeks ago, we tasted a batch of Sicilian whites in this corner. Now that it's become sort of "shoulder season" for wine-drinking the cool whites of summer are giving way to the warmer, richer reds of early autumn here is a basketful of reds from the same geo-viticultural football off the toe of Italy. In ancient times (the Greeks once again get much of the credit for getting the whole wine thing going here), Sicily was particularly noted for the quality of its sweet wines. Today, at least in the listing guide from BC Liquor Stores, there isn't one (apart from a specialty listing for a Passito di Pantelleria, the area where Moscato was once a prized treasure).

There are plenty of reds, despite the fact that white-wine grapes are still Sicily's largest plantings. Perhaps the most promising variety is the ubiquitous nero d'avola, which takes to oak aging successfully. (Still, it would be nice if you could taste the old-style Nero, which used to be aged in chestnut casks. I don't know of any such available on the market now.) Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz/Syrah both crop up in contemporary blends and as primary varietals on new labels. Prices again ran the range from under $10 to over $50. As before, we concentrated our energies on the lower end, with a single, notable, gotta-have-a-treat-now-and-then exception, and we found lots to like around $15. As before, all wines were bought in a neighbourhood government store, with the noted exception.

Bolla sicilia rosso 2004 ($9.99) Guess what? The wine was corked. The second bottle was fine, but there's that old TCA-tainting dilemma again. Here is a "fruit-forward" blend of Nero d'Avola and Shiraz, with a pleasant aroma, a lovely purple colour, good weight, a silky finish, and this isn't always the case with some of these reds not too much roast going down. The tall, Mosel-style blue glass bottle is a bit odd, but the wine itself represents very good value.

Montalto nero D'avola/Cabernet sauvignon ($10.99) This was the only screw-capped wine in this tasting; let's give it a special hand for that. It has rich, deep, brilliant colour, a plummy-cherry nose, soft texture, and mellow tannins, and it's also not roasty. Even at 14 percent, it had a lengthy finish, too. There's just a hint of oak here, well balanced with the fruit, and it's the bargain of the batch. Once fall rain clouds start scudding in, this will be the one to remember for big, juicy roasts.

Mandrarossa nero D'avola 2004 ($13.99) A wine that showcases this major Sicilian grape all on its own. Pop the dark, plastic cork and pour the inky-black liquid, whose colour suggests a deeper aroma than it actually delivers. The fruit is slow in coming. With the aid of an Italian-English dictionary: "layers of damson, black cherry, and licorice”¦intense and elegant wine”¦[for] hard, spicy cheese". It does finish bold and big, the flavours pronounced and deep. Overall, I think I prefer the d'Avola with the mitigating influence of Syrah or Cabernet. Still, it's very clean and a little licorice-y.

Mezzo giorno nero D'avola/Shiraz 2005 ($14.99) We begin with sweet blackcurrant aromas and something akin to dried fig in the taste. It's soft on the palate, with short fruit and a short finish. In this company, it has its work cut out and doesn't quite deliver the follow-through of the others.

Feudo D'arancio syrah 2004 ($15.99) While throwing all sorts of immediate fruit aromas and flavours on the tongue saskatoon berries, purple-plum compote wrapped in a lovely little sweet edge it might lead you to find chocolate and licorice, too. As consistent and well-made as its companion Grillo, which we tasted in the white lineup, it's a well-priced dinner wine. We're thinking with eggplant Parmesan, smoked cheese, applewood Cheddar, or cumin-spiced Gouda; a winner.

Planeta "La segreta rosso" 2006 ($19.99) This is a more affordable wine from the famous Planeta people, they of the $50 Syrah and Chardonnay. They won't reveal the blend, but it's a good one, starting with a fresh raspberry hit for the nose and a burst of bright fruit for the tongue. That raspberry edge really makes this one work as a versatile food wine, for everything from pasta with fresh rosemary, garlic, and tuna to lemon-roasted chicken to grilled halibut with sautéed rhubarb and bacon. Terrific wine in every way.

Feudo Maccari "Saia" Nero d'Avola 2004 ($46) What price terrific? Would you spend more than $40? Feudo Maccari, at private stores (Liberty Wine Merchants in Kitsilano being one; the 2005 arrives any day now with a tag between $50 and $55), was first tasted off the wine list at CinCin on Robson. The word brilliant kept coming up: brilliant colour, brilliant aromas, brilliant flavour. Then we switched to other superlatives. First taste was with the house gnocchi (lots of sage and a rich reduction sauce, a side of green beans with garlic, anchovy, and chili)sensational. The next bottle kept a fiery peposo stew company at home, the beef slow-braised with eight tablespoons of black pepper and plenty of red wine. (Not this one!) If you ever need a really high-end pizza wine, splurge on this.

Here's the three-star selection ("Saia" excluded for pecuniary reasons) 1. Feudo d'Arancio 2. Planeta "La Segreta Rosso" 3. Montalto.