There are big South African doings around town this month. The marketing organization Wines of South Africa is teaming up with the LDB to present no fewer than 15 feature wines in a special promotion. Fifty stores are being targeted, including all 20 Signature stores (what used to be known as specialty stores). The promotion continues until November 24, and although not every store will feature all 15 wines, each will have a good sampling of what's available. So we arranged a little sampling of our own, picking six in the customary random-but-with-a-purpose manner this column is built on.

The wines range in price from $11 to $45, so we grabbed one of each of those as bookends. Then we chose stuff we've come to know and love: a representative Chenin Blanc, some meandering Guinea Fowl and roaming goats, and an organic blend. And just around the time we finished tasting, Canada's first homegrown Pinotage arrived, and that became this issue's Drink of the Week. (I'm virtually certain it's the first; if not, eagle-eyed readers will doubtless correct me.)

For the price–$10.99–Two Oceans Cabernet Sauvignon–Merlot 2006 is unbeatable. Get some in a glass, taste a whole lot of fresh and bright cherry fruit with a hint of spice (cinnamon?) in the finish. Someone suggested it as the ideal foil for wild mushroom risotto and roasted vegetables, and there was nothing to it but to do it. A great early-fall dinner and a great price.

At the other end of the spectrum sits DeToren Fusion V 2004, described as a "small production cult wine" (it got 91 points in the Spectator, if that sort of thing is important to you) and cheaper than I first anticipated. When the price list arrived it was pegged at $44.99, so we tasted it as a $50 wine and still found it good value. But when I saw it in the store a couple of days ago, there were case-lots of it (must be a sizable cult) and the tag read $33.99, so I bought three more, on hold for Christmas dinner. It's big, dark, deep, and brilliant–a Bordeaux blend, built on lots of Cabernet Sauvignon but including the other four classic varieties in small measure. Lovely, silky, mellow–and very Bordeaux. Not a dissenting palate in the room as it was pronounced wonderful. Word's already out, so grab what you can, if you can.

Chenin Blanc is something South Africa does very well. They used to call it Steen, and some smaller, local labels still do. The single one in this presentation comes from the Winery of Good Hope (2006, $13.99). I first singled it out when it appeared at the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival a couple of years ago, and I was happy to see it again. It's everything a good Chenin should be–fruity, lots of weight, crisp acidity; dry without being puckery; luscious and round. One of only two whites in this presentation (all right, three, if you include the bubble), it also got grabbed by the box for holiday sipping.

Winemaker Charles Back's tongue-in-cheek, thorn-in-the-side-of-the-French red blend called Goats Do Roam, has been a personal favourite since it first arrived on our shores years ago. (Yes, there are goats on the premises, and they do roam throughout the property, including in some vineyards; I've seen them firsthand.) The 2005 is part of this package, good value at $15.99. It's been accumulating accolades since it appeared, and what's not to like? A solid, fresh red blend that displays lots of stone-fruit flavours, gentle oak, and a rich, round finish. It's one of the most versatile food wines in that price range that you'll find in the whole LDB these days, regardless of origin.

Saxenburg Guinea Fowl 2004 ($17.99) is another long-time personal favourite, first discussed here in a column back in June that was devoted entirely to this remarkable 300-year-old winery. Savvy Vancouver restaurants carry its wines, including the $125 Shiraz Select 2000, which can still be found on a few wine lists. The Guinea Fowl is basically a Cape Meritage–style blend, mostly Merlot in this vintage, plus about equal parts Cabernet and Shiraz. Couldn't get enough of the '03 back then, and the current offering is every bit as appealing: beautifully balanced, with lots of chocolate and coffee flavours among the smoky fruit. Satisfaction all around with this one, especially when it came dinner time: I tried to copy Andrey Durbach of La Buca's herb-stuffed lamb pot roast, and came close.

There was also unanimity regarding the new Winds of Change Organic Pinotage-Shiraz 2004 ($14.99). Of the six wines sampled, this was the best buy. It comes from the Tribal winery, which is pioneering the idea of black economic empowerment in South Africa with great success, not only as a business model but also with the quality of its wine. It's not a common blend but it certainly works, creating a soft, luscious-but-hearty red; the often-spiky Pinotage is nicely mellowed by the more approachable Shiraz. It would still be a best buy at five bucks more; here, it's a bargain. And it has bonuses: 100-percent certified organically grown grapes, and the fact that it's the first certified Fair Trade wine available in Canada. That's a good bandwagon to jump on.

And there are nine others to check out, most of them under $20. Three in-store tasting events are scheduled for the next couple of weeks: 39th and Cambie on Saturday (November 10); Westwood Centre, in Port Coquitlam, on November 18; and Langley on November 24. As many of the 15 South African wines as possible will be shown at these locations, and there will also be appies and music.