Uncorked

Here comes the first of at least two lineups of BOYs–Best of the Year selections. During the past 12 months, these were the wines that shone ultra bright. This is a list of imports; domestics follow in a week or two.

When they were acquired, tasted, and rated, these wines were available at either LDB stores or private wine shops. And at the time, the prices quoted here were correct.

As has become the custom, we try to cram 13 bottles into each 12-bottle case, but we could well have done two dozen or more. There's no particular order except how they fell out of memory.

Shenandoah Vineyards Amador County Zinfandel 2005 ($19.90) A gorgeous wine, and organic, by the by. There's abundant fruit, a hint of molasses in the aroma, and that nice black-pepper bite we all like in our Zins, and it's beautifully balanced. Have it with black or red berries or cocoa; see how it sits with a roast on a bed of red onion, leeks, garlic, tomatoes, and herbs; or try it with a rich, tangy slab of cheese.

The Winery of Good Hope Chenin Blanc 2006 ($13.99) Still a steal for the price and a textbook example of well-done South African Chenin, this one is super clean, fresh, and bright, with a welcome hint of sweetness from front palate through to finish. It's ideal for all manner of fish and seafood, including crab cakes, shrimp cocktail, and ceviche with a tequila-lime chaser. Five-star stuff.

Clos du Chateau de Mosny Montlouis sur Loire Moelleux 2003 ($24.07, 500 millilitres) Speaking of Chenin, do whatever it takes to encounter this astonishing French number. A simply stunning taste experience, it has apricot and very ripe currants, a mega-complex nose followed by a rush of sweetness, and then what the label calls "noble bitterness". With rich, sweet fruit in a kind of 12-part harmony of balance, it makes a grand apéritif and a glorious dessert match, particularly for anything built with chocolate.

Vespaiolo Vino Frizzante n/v ($19.90) Here's a terrific new bubbly from Italy, specialty-listed and available in a few local restaurants. This is a white-grape variety from the Veneto region that's used primarily in sweet-wine production, but here it comes out bold, fresh, and full-bodied, as well as good and dry. An all-around fine gulper and one of the best among the Prosecco-style wines we see here, this is fine for anything festive ahead, such as Valentine's Day.

Alain Brumont Gros Manseng-Sauvignon 2006 ($15.99) It's the second year in a row in the top box for this stylish and elegant white blend, although it's maybe a little lighter this time. You can find a dozen fruit hooks in here; we got lots of Bartlett pear and even fireweed honey. A good-value wine with remarkable finesse.

Raimat Albarino Chardonnay 2005 ($12.99) It's rare to get Albariño–even if it's only 40 percent, like this blend–for such a good price. The Chardonnay fleshes out the fresh fruit with hints of flowers and spice–most impressive. If you love a big pot of just-boiled new potatoes with butter, chives, and fleur de sel, here's your perfect foil. Another fine buy.

DeToren Fusion V 2004 (I bought some at around $35, but it should have been more.) This one, a brilliant South African Bordeaux-style blend relying primarily on Cabernet Sauvignon, arrived late in the year, and it could become a fixture if the lottery boat ever came in. Lovely, silky, mellow, and very Bordeaux, this is a rich, generous food wine with a finish as far as the eye can see. A good one to keep checking as subsequent vintages arrive–if they arrive.

Domaine de Sancet 2006 ($9.99) This continues to be a high point in the under-$10 booklet, a blend of Colombard, Gros Manseng, and Ugni Blanc from the Côtes de Gascogne. Big and fresh, with full, soft fruit, it's definitely for gulping. A top buy the previous year and still holding the price, this was one of last summer's best bargains.

Sogrape Gazela Vinho Verde ($9.99) This remains a favourite warm-weather wine–fresh and refreshing, very low in alcohol, and cheap. The best of the summer plonks, it's fizzy, fresh outdoor-dinner wine, and if you can get some fresh sardines to grill, be sure you have backup of this in the fridge.

Feudo d'Arancio Syrah 2004 ($15.99) What fruit we found here: saskatoon berries, purple plums, huckleberries, even quince, plus chocolate and licorice. This is as consistent as its companion, Grillo, a very well-priced dinner wine. We're thinking eggplant Parmesan, applewood Cheddar, cumin-spiced Gouda, roast potatoes with fresh herbs and a dab of truffle oil–the list is endless. (The Grillo, a lovely, creamy, silky seafood winner, is the same price a year later.)

DonnaFugata Anthilia 2005 ($15.99) A Sicilian white blend of Catarratto and Ansonica, this blew everyone away from the first sip. It's possibly the perfect companion to those little white anchovies you find in Italy, or anything crustacean, smoked, brined, seared, spiced, baked, or whatever, out of the sea. The same group makes a 50-buck Chardonnay, but I can't imagine it being any better.

Saxenburg Private Collection Sauvignon Blanc 2005 ($19.90) This set a whole new standard for the SBs available in town: elegant, flinty-fruity, Chablis-esque, herby, lemony, and perfectly balanced, it's just the antidote for those of us who've had it up to here with bottled grass clippings. We discovered the wonderful range of Saxenburg wines from South Africa in 2005, and they've barely left the table since. Small restaurants and private stores seem to hold much of the portfolio, but this SB was the best value for our tasters' money. Then there are all those amazing reds…

Camaraderie Cellars Merlot 2005 ($35) This red from Washington state came to town for a fundraising wine tasting, but one or two bottles may have stayed behind. It's as good as most of the fabled Walla Walla reds, and cheaper too. A rich and romantic big-dinner wine, it's all fresh-brewed coffee and Venezuelan chocolate aromas, silky and sating, meaty and chewy, so round it's practically spherical. Among the few places to find it are Liberty Wine Merchants (various locations) and Tapastree Restaurant (1829 Robson Street).