Even residents of the world’s most desirable city occasionally need to sneak out of town to a little hideaway. Summer or winter, Gibsons provides just that. When the weather report doesn’t sound promising, it stands to reason that if any place close to Vancouver might get a break from storms, it will be the Sunshine Coast.

You don’t have to work hard at hiding out on the Sunshine Coast. Much of it is naturally hidden, like Gibson’s Landing (the town’s first name, shortened in 1947). Just branch off the main roads between Gibsons and Roberts Creek and see for yourself. In winter, beneath bare tree branches, the landscape lies winded, as if catching its breath. Look around. You’ve practically got the place to yourself. And it only takes a short ferry ride.

As in the weekly television series The Beachcombers, which was produced in Gibsons in the 1970s and ’80s, the townsfolk are a little grizzled and decidedly blue-collar, a reflection of the fact that many work in either the fishing or logging industry.

Gibsons harbour has a somnolent pace. It’s little more than several blocks long, so take your time exploring what’s on offer: shops, restaurants, galleries, and bed-and-breakfasts sit cheek by jowl. Across from the helpful tourism office stands the town’s centrepiece, the Molly’s Reach restaurant.

The sea walk along the harbour’s breakwater sports an astonishing number of businesses, points of interest, parks, and beaches. Exploring all 60 or so stops as suggested on a visitor’s map could easily absorb your attention during the course of a day trip or weekend stay. Although you can cycle along the walk, there’s so much to see in so little space that strolling is preferable. When you need a little breathing room, head out to the gazebo at the end of the town pier, both for a perspective on the intimate setting and for a breathtaking view of Howe Sound. There’s no better place to size up the Lions (the Sisters) or Mount Garibaldi, whose arrowhead peak augers the skyline above Squamish. Keats Island, a natural destination for paddlers, lies within hailing distance. Launch at the Gibsons Marina or take a guided kayak tour from the sea walk below Molly’s Lane.

In the calm of a wintery day, it’s hard to resist the urge to explore the cozy shoreline of the Salish Sea. Local tour guide Tony Kristian knows the feeling. Aboard his boat, the Crystal, a replica of the African Queen (a boat in a 1951 film of the same name starring Humphrey Bogart and Katharine Hepburn), he pilots passengers around Shoal Channel. When contacted by phone, Kristian told the Georgia Straight he’d enjoyed his busiest
holiday season in several years. “Gibsons is like Steveston was 20 years ago. It’s Sleepy Hollow,” he said. “Right now, I like to take people around the Paisley Island group at the mouth of Howe Sound. The water is so clear you can look down almost 20 feet. The white-sand bottom makes everything stand out. There’s a tremendous amount of marine life out there. I’m amazed at the numbers of rockfish returning recently, especially baby green lingcod that haven’t been seen in years.”

No matter what season, one of the best cycling routes around Gibsons’ steep hillside leads to Bonniebrook Beach. This long stretch of pebble beach eventually turns sandy where Ocean Beach Esplanade dead-ends, a popular destination for dog owners. Budget 30 to 45 minutes to cycle the five-
kilometre route. Enjoy the downhill rush on the way out because hill climbs present stiff challenges at two points on the return journey.

Along the way, stop at the Gospel Rock viewpoint overlooking the mouth of Howe Sound. A large granite bluff fringed with arbutus marks Gower Point. Farther west, Chaster Regional Park begins opposite the 1920s-era Bonniebrook Lodge and signals the beginning of a long, sweeping arch of beach that stretches far to the north. (A cairn in Chaster Park honours the arrival of Capt. George Vancouver, who overnighted here in June 1792.) Numerous beach trails present themselves, including a set of stairs at the end of Ocean Beach Esplanade. A profound sense of peace and quiet prevails along this beach, seemingly just for your pleasure, as it traces the ocean toward distant Roberts Point.

Access: Gibsons is a 40-minute ferry ride from B.C. Ferries’ terminal at Horseshoe Bay in West Vancouver. For information on sailing times, fares, and reservations, contact B.C. Ferries (1-888-223-3779; www.bcferries.com/ ). Lower Gibsons (sometimes called Gibson’s Landing) is four kilometres west on Marine Drive from the Langdale terminal, an enjoyable cycle with only one medium hill climb.

Travel information is available at the Gibsons visitor info centre (417 Marine Drive; 604-886-2374 or 1-866-222-3806; www.gibsonsbc.ca/ ). For details on festivals, events, shops, and services, visit www.gibsonslandingbc.com/.

Sunshine Kayaking (604-886-9760; www.sunshinekayaking.com/ ) offers year-round sea-kayak rentals and tours. Gibson’s Landing Harbour Tours (604-886-4910) leave from the town’s dock.

A wide selection of fresh and frozen seafood—albacore tuna, Dungeness crab, salmon, octopus, the works—is sold dawn to dusk from the deck of Craig Perry’s boat, the New Beldis (604-740-6371), at the town dock.