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Louise Christie photo.

One of the pleasures of Gabriola is exploring the beaches and sandstone galleries—tunnel-like curved and overhanging waveforms smoothed by time and the elements.

Gabriola’s galleries, gardens, and gunkholes

Travel has long been touted as enlightening, and truer words were never spoken. Especially these days in B.C. Whether your quest is to savour natural beauty or admire artistic expression inspired by the landscape, you don’t have to journey far from home to discover that fact. Even in the off-season, nowhere is that more apparent than in the Gulf Islands.

Not quite nestled in Nanaimo’s embrace yet close enough to feel like it’s a partner of the Harbour City, Gabriola Island is another piece in the Strait of Georgia’s jigsaw puzzle worth adding to your collection of travel memories. Although it’s third-largest in size and second-largest in population of all the southern Gulf Islands, you won’t be as overwhelmed by the choice of attractions for your day or weekend trip as you might be on chart-topping Salt Spring Island.

Gabriola invites you to explore on foot along its weathered coastline, where sandstone formations dazzle the imagination. Visit any of its three provincial parks—Gabriola Sands, Drumbeg, and Sandwell—to become instantly enchanted by the island’s unique natural identity. Come with your boat if you wish to navigate the calm waters in the shelter of the Flat Top Islands at the southeastern end of the 20-kilometre-long, sneaker-shaped island.

Or simply walk or ride your bicycle to reach the sandstone galleries and beaches that define the northern shoreline near the B.C. Ferries dock at Descanso Bay. (The sight of Gabriola’s steep-sided cliffs is enough to put anyone off the thought of cycling here. However, the full-to-overflowing bike rack in front of the island’s elementary school just uphill from the slip provides reassurance.)

Eroded sandstone formations characterize many Gulf Island coastlines. Gabriola’s Malaspina Galleries, wedged between the regional park at Descanso Bay and Gabriola Sands, trump them all. Low tide is the ideal time to view the tunnel-like curved and overhanging sandstone waveforms smoothed away over time by the elements. (Since 2004, though, because of concern about deteriorating rock, visitors have not been allowed to stand on top of or inside the galleries.) Beware slipping on deceptively smooth rock shelves, especially as the nearest emergency medical aid is in Nanaimo.

Even better views are on offer at the northeastern corner of the island at Orlebar Point, seven kilometres east of Descanso Bay on Berry Point Road. There are benches to recline on if the scene overwhelms you, as it well might. Although Clark Bay’s sandstone shoreline may not be as extravagantly sculpted as the nearby galleries, the location can’t be topped. For starters, there is always a ferry coming or going in Fairway Channel at the mouth of Nanaimo’s Departure Bay. Closer to shore, narrow Forwood Channel separates the point from Entrance Island, where a cluster of red-and-white buildings surrounds its lighthouse. Stake out a picnic table or driftwood perch and marvel as ferry wakes break on the beach like surf. (If you’re looking for bedding-plant bargains, pop in at the Cottage Garden nursery opposite the point.)

Silva Bay, the site of one of the first pieces of land on Gabriola to be settled by Europeans, in the 1880s, lies at the opposite end of the island from Orlebar Point. The coziness found here is the polar opposite of the wind-whipped point. A popular stopover for boaters in summer, the sheltered bay lies deserted for the remainder of the year. No matter when you visit, this is always a welcome point of rest, especially for bicycle riders. It’s also a good kayak launch site for exploring the nearby Flat Top Islands. Check out the Silva Bay Shipyard School (www.boatschool.com/ ), one of only two such training facilities left in Canada, then walk down to the marina to see splendid wooden examples afloat, such as a Nutshell pram rowboat.

A similar car-top-sized gunkholer is displayed inside the Silva Bay Resort. One of Gabriola’s most picturesque dining locations belongs to this old-school fishing lodge with its oceanfront views. This casual bistro puts proof to the fact that above-average is the new average, especially when it comes to pub grub on the coast. Treat yourself to a Boat School Ale from Shaftebury Brewing and the resort will donate 50 cents to the Silva Bay Shipyard School. The 100-Mile Diet–inspired menu features a host of locally sourced items, such as steamed Salt Spring mussels and clams; island-reared beef, chicken, and lamb; and Gabriola vegetables galore. Pull up a chair beside the fire and enjoy some live music in the evening. If you’ve ever stopped at a pub on the Gulf Islands, the welcome extended visitors here will feel familiar. As a letter posted at the marina attests: “Gabriola Islanders are slow to anger, slow to criticize, and very quick to help out.”

A short distance away, eagles circle above an old-growth stand of Douglas firs, thick-trunked Garry oaks, and gangly arbutuses, which shade a trail that traces the shoreline of intimate Drumbeg Provincial Park. An extensive First Nations midden surmounts the beach, evidence of past feasting by the Snuneymuxw and Lyakson First Nations. At low tide, explore the rock shelves that plane out into the passage between land’s end and a slew of nearby islands. All the key ingredients of a Gulf Islands ecosystem are on display here within easy range of the park entrance. Enlightenment comes with the turf.

Access: B.C. Ferries connects Gabriola Island with Nanaimo, which you can reach via Horseshoe Bay. For sailing times, visit www.bcferries.com/. Sailing time to Descanso Bay on Gabriola is 20 minutes. Pick up a complimentary island map when you purchase your ferry ticket.

For tourism information, contact the Gabriola Island visitor information centre (3–575 North Road in Folklife Village; 250-247-9332 or 1-888-284-9332; www.gabriolaisland.org/). The free Gulf Islander visitors’ guide (Driftwood Publishing; www.gulfislands.net/ ) is another good resource.

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