Viognier continues its dominance as the white wine lover’s darling. Chardonnay is so last season, isn’t it? And Pinot Blanc? For people frying fish, darling. Sauvignon Blanc is all about oysters, what do you say? But Viognier, now there’s one to be seen sipping.

Of course, it wasn’t always like this. Ten years ago, maybe five, you couldn’t find a bottle of Viognier in this town if you tried. Maybe a Condrieu, in the northern Rhône section, where the grape more or less originated and hit its pinnacle, some say, and costs 60 bucks.

But now, how many different ones are there? I found 13 without breathing hard; there must be 30 or more in the various national sections in the government store, and probably another 20-plus in the privates.

It is a lovely wine, isn’t it? Not for dainty sipping, but definitely for big gulping. It’s for hearty dinners rather than designer nibbles.

So for your delectation, a quick run through the customary baker’s dozen, picked at random and according to easy availability (save for two) and in ascending order of price, but (save for one) keeping it under $20. Which is where wines should be priced. Yes, all wines! Elect me—I’ll make it happen. Prices are moved around monthly, so there might be a few cents’ discrepancy.

Cono Sur Viognier 2006 ($10.89) This Chilean wine wonder keeps on coming, just not in big enough supplies. The city’s caught on—this is a deal!—and people are carting it home by the box. It likes fish—all kinds, even sushi—and spring vegetables, or green beans flash-fried in butter. It ain’t elegant, but it sure is good—fresh, clean, full, and satisfying. And that price…

Familia Zuccardi Santa Julia Viognier 2005 ($10.89) Pretty in green and gold, with a grassy, slightly sweaty Sauvignon-style aroma, this Argentine wine lacks the softness that makes the Chilean so appealing. For late in the evening, maybe, when you’re finding empty glasses under the stairs.

Moillard Hugues le Juste Viognier 2006 ($11.89) Now we start edging up by dollar increments with the first of many French models we have to choose from, and the three we have at hand. Dark and a bit heavy, shy of fruit but full on the tongue, it handles burgers, stir-fries, and pasta pretty well.

Gerard Bertrand Classique Viognier 2005 ($12.87) This is fresh, bold, and bright, a killer every which way, and about as stylish as this lot gets. If you want to go to Viognier Valhalla (Condrieu, France) go ahead, but be prepared to drop an extra Mackenzie King bill, and this class-act wine might still kick its butt.

Serame Viognier 2006 ($12.87) It costs the same as the Bertrand but can’t keep up, nice though it is with fresh but curious citrus and honey elements, rich and solid and luscious. Good comparison tasting here—Bertrand, this one, and the Paul Mas, below.

Paul Mas Viognier 2006 ($13.86) This one puts out plenty of fruit and a little bit of oak (it’s partly barrel-fermented). It’s food friendly all the way and has a bright, fresh aroma that stays away from the air-freshener quality some Vs can display, but you don’t really need to pay the extra deuce.

Excelsior Paddock Viognier 2005 ($15.84) This Viognier shows us the South African approach, and it’s a good one—big on fruit, and just the thing if you want to get blitzed fast. (It has a 14.5 percent zap.) There’s an unusual Sauvignon-like aftertaste in the finish, with lots of fresh-mown grass and limes bouncing around the palate, but for the price, I don’t know.

Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate Proprietors’ Reserve Viognier 2006 ($15.85) This has a longer name than its finish—short and a little sharp, with somewhat disappointing fruit. There are dozens of better J-T whites around.

Smoking Loon Viognier ($16.84) One of a handful of regularly listed California Viogniers (there are many more, and better, in the private stores)—this is dark and oily, with an unusual, can’t-quite-peg-it flavour. It’s quite sugary, like it wants to be a dessert wine but got lost along the way. The corny back label is aimed at what they assume is their demographic, so there’s obviously a market for this.

Anakena Single Vineyard Viognier 2006 ($17.35) This one kept me looking for the “intense apricot” and tropical fruit the back label pointed to. We all thought the fruit was quite short, but that the finish was nice and fresh. Cold salmon or egg and potato salad will reward this, but remember—six bucks less and you’re still in the same country, back at Cono Sur.

Cline Viognier 2006 ($17.91) It starts out gently floral, then shows a little spice—freshly ground white pepper, maybe—and some nectarine edge to the abundant fruit. Closer to Condrieu than most here—appealing and full.

La Frenz Viognier 2006 ($20) This one is lush and very ripe, with fabulous tropical fruit (what kind of tropical fruit comes from the Okanagan?) and easy spiciness, from the tip of the tongue right down the hatch. After the tasting, I got another bottle and had it with curried beef brisket and potatoes, braised broccoli, and oyster mushrooms, and it went hand-in-glove good. This vintage is sold out, but get some when the next is released; it’s worth the effort.

Van Westen Viognier 2006 ($24.90) Ditto about the sold-out part, but regular browsers here will have already secured their supply—for the past two, three vintages, it’s been a solid favourite here. It’s got big aromas of apricot, peach, and nectarine; a rich and abundant follow-through along the palate; and a little edge of citrus. Apparently, you can still find it in the cellar at Café de Paris and Salt Tasting Room.

If Price were no Object

Van Westen and La Frenz (tied)

Cline and Gérard Bertrand (tied)

Cono Sur

First to Empty

Van Westen

Cono Sur

Gérard Bertrand and Cline (tied)

Best Buys

Cono Sur

Gérard Bertrand

Paul Mas and Cline (tied)