Sha Lin Noodle House

Pigging out on starters recently at Sha Lin Noodle House (548 West Broadway) meant I got to doggy-bag enough for lunch the next day. What took the edge off my appetite in the best way—as we pondered the merits of pulling, pushing, and dragging noodles—were skewers of grilled lamb, speckled thickly with cumin and spicy with chili. At $1.50 a stick, I had pictured something on a toothpick, but these were much, much bigger. The onion pancakes didn’t help much, either”¦

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