There are plenty of big guns on the B.C. wine scene, and one of the biggest is Harry McWatters. For over four decades, he has filled—defined is better—the role of mover and shaker in our still-fledgling wine industry. (It’s a lot less fledgling now than it was in the ’60s, and we have McWatters to thank for a lot of that defledglingization!)

So now he’s bowing out. Well, it’s impossible to entertain the idea that he is leaving the industry entirely. His just-announced decision to step down as president of Sumac Ridge Estate Winery and the See Ya Later Ranch label doesn’t come as a surprise: when he sold his interest in these two operations to Vincor Canada, he committed to staying on for five years, and it’s been eight now.

For Sumac Ridge in particular, McWatters pushed more envelopes than just about anyone in this curious, volatile, regulation-fraught business. He made the name synonymous with excellence in wine quality. The entire Sumac Ridge portfolio consisted of winners, in terms of both accolades and awards, and consumer (and critic!) appreciation. Very few wineries of a comparable size have achieved such success.

But perhaps his greatest legacy is the variety of roles he played in industry organizations: he helped establish the B.C. Wine Institute, Wines of Canada, VQA Canada, the B.C. Wine Information Society, the Okanagan Wine Festivals Society, and more. When he was awarded the Order of British Columbia five years ago, it was just another jewel added to the crown.

Then he signed on to the American Meritage movement and Sumac became the first winery in Canada to gain the right to use the name; dozens were to follow. But following was never a word Harry much used. Leading was his game. Still is.

The last time I shared a stage with him was at the gala fundraiser for the B.C. Hospitality Foundation, where we made history once again by raising a major amount of money from 150 industry heavies to launch this much-needed intra-industry organization. His generosity—personal and corporate—is legendary.

So now what? Starting on May Day, McWatters goes to work on a new project—establishing the Okanagan Wine Academy—while continuing in a consulting capacity with the various Vincor properties and projects. He’ll stay on as partner in and president of the prestigious Black Sage Vineyard. And maybe, just maybe, he’ll find some time to finish that much-mooted B.C. wine-country cookbook he’s been talking about.

“This is by no means retirement,” says McWatters in a letter to media, “but an opportunity to find new reasons to get out of bed in the morning and shift gears, as I plan to remain active in the future growth of this great industry.”

We wouldn’t want it any other way. And you can bet that this also-long-running participant in the B.C. wine industry is going to be on the phone to Harry first thing tomorrow, seeing what’s shaking and moving, what’s new and exciting; maybe even sending in a résumé, seeing if any of those just-vacated positions need filling.

Yes, there are still plenty of big guns on the B.C. wine scene, but only one great one. A toast, Harry.

In case, for some odd reason, you are not familiar with the great selection of Sumac Ridge wines, here’s a quick taste-through of four new vintages that—are we surprised?—strike the palate as particularly noteworthy.

Private Reserve Rose 2006 ($13.99) Sumac Ridge lifted the lowly rosé from its white-Zin crush of mediocrity and made it wonderful. The likes of St. Hubertus and Gray Monk, and more recently Joie, soon followed suit. This used to be called Okanagan Blush, and under that name established itself as the apotheosis of pink. It continues to be lovely—luscious, wet, and fruity, no cotton candy but lots of Queen Anne cherries and other berries. It’s still made as a red-and-white-wine blend, which accounts in no small part for its food-friendly heftiness. A recent treat was having it with cabbage sautéed with caraway and fresh thyme; you could also try it alongside Swiss chard with malt vinegar and pink peppercorns.

Black Sage Vineyard Chardonnay 2006 ($19.99) This is special-occasion Chardonnay (“Great with lobster and smoked fish,” says the back label). The fruit is full, the acidity nicely ameliorated by aging in small oak barrels. In fact, the oak-and-fruit integration is textbook good. Mind, you have to like it on the woody side—if you do, this one’s superb.

Pinnacle White 2006 ($25) The red version of this has been around for many vintages. When it first appeared, it was B.C.’s most expensive red blend at $50. This is the white version; 500 cases is the total production. The mix is 25 percent Gewürztraminer, 20 percent Sauvignon Blanc, 20 percent Ehrenfelser, 15 percent Chardonnay, 10 percent Pinot Blanc, eight percent Muscat, and two percent Sémillon. It’s a brilliant blend—all those grapes give it great character, abundant fresh fruit, and a long, fragrant finish.

Black Sage Vineyard Meritage Red 2005 ($26.99) Others have priced theirs at double that, even more, yet you’d have to travel far and wide throughout the Okanagan for a better, heartier typical Meritage. It’s rich, deep, and intense, with a softness that comes from the skillful handling of tannins and the judicious selection of oak barrels for the aging. A long-time keeper, it nonetheless rewards a great dinner even at this relatively early stage of its life. By all means stick some away under the stairs for a year or two, and you’ll enjoy it even more.