Am I alone in thinking most early-bird deals are too early? Gastropod (1938 West 4th Avenue) heads in the right direction with a civilized 7 p.m. cutoff time. Samples from its new early three-course prix fixe: Quadra Island mussels escabeche, organic pork shoulder with polenta and wild mushrooms, sweet carrot risotto. This early menu is available Sunday through Thursday for $35 (plus $25 for wine). Note, too, that until April 12, chef Angus An offers the same 10-course menu he served recently at the James Beard House in New York ($85.50 plus $50 for Joie wines).