Wine touring in the Okanagan Valley

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      Where to sample liquid wonder as you wander

      Wine touring in the Okanagan used to mean you’d grab a gas-station road map and head off, stopping anywhere you saw a sign advertising a winery. You went in and took a taste or two, and if you liked it you bought a couple of bottles to take home.

      Of course, that was in the days when there were—what?—eight, nine wineries scattered throughout the valley. Now, with more than 100 crowding the fertile landscape, it’s much more complex. Not necessarily more complicated—you can still just amble along looking for roadside signs, pull in, taste, and stock the trunk. But if you really want to get the most out of the touring experience, and get a proper feel for the amazing development of wineries and their wines in this fast-growing area, you’ll want to do a bit more prep.

      There are now four annual wine festivals in the Okanagan, one for each season. The spring festival takes place May 1 to 10, with most of the activities and the welcome mat being laid out over the first full weekend in May. The summer festival consists of three days in early August at Silver Star Mountain Resort, near Vernon. The fall festival, a 10-day period in early October, has major wine competitions and some of the new vintages already on offer. The winter event—held January 13 to 18, 2009—will feature an icewine celebration and tastings at Sun Peaks Resort, near Kamloops. More information can be found at www.owfs.com/.

      First of all, get a big car—borrow a van or an SUV if you can. You’re going to be buying more than a few bottles, we’re talking cases now. Plenty of city dwellers stock their cellars for the summer, or for the future, by carting home boxes full of wine. No, there’s no price advantage—our government sales organization isn’t so enlightened or benign as to allow wineries to do case-lot discount deals.

      But buying in volume often means the difference between happiness and disappointment. While there are now nearly 200 wineries in B.C., many of them—most of them—are minuscule. And when you’re dealing with total production volumes of a thousand cases split over four or five varieties, and when those wines have already garnered accolades and awards and critical acclaim far and wide—a lot of them from loudmouths like me—you will find the Sold-out sign hanging off the farm gate more often than not. People are loading up those vans.

      Next, you will need John Schreiner’s Okanagan Wine Tour Guide. The last edition, updated and with a third again as much new material, was published a year ago. John Schreiner’s is the palate I will trust blindly because he (a) always gets his facts right (it comes from spending many years as a business and financial journalist), and (b) knows not just what he likes but how to make it
      himself. If he says it’s there, there it is. If he says it’s good, you’ve got to get it. At $19.95, the Whitecap-published paperback is the single best investment you can make when setting out to acquire Okanagan wine.

      Third, get a copy of the guide to the 100-plus events happening in wine country in May. (The guide can be found at www.kelownadailycourier.ca/spring_wine_guide.php and at VQA and LDB stores around town.) Then, get going. If you want to attend some of the special events—dinners, brunches, lunches, musicales—book as far ahead as you can. A lot of the venues are small, and many events happening at wineries are of necessity limited to smaller groups.

      Where to start? Years ago, when people asked where to begin when visiting California’s Napa Valley, “Robert Mondavi” was my standard answer—get the best and one of the biggest, and get some basics out of the way. Here at home, I say “Mission Hill”. This fantastic place impresses right from the start—the site, the architecture, the setting. You will get an informative and entertaining
      introduction to Okanagan wine and winemaking. You will taste some remarkable wines, from $10 table plonk to $100 limited releases. You will be thoroughly satisfied with the visit.

      After that, let whim take you. Or what people have told you. Or what I’m about to suggest. Maybe focus on a particular part of the long valley, a region. You’ll need to make a decision or two: the Naramata Bench, past Penticton; the South Okanagan through the northernmost part of the Sonora Desert, along the Black Sage Bench, almost to the American border; or northwards, as far as Gray Monk and beyond. Your call—you’ll still have plenty left undiscovered for next year and the year after that.

      On the way home, take the southern route—past Oliver and Osoyoos, along the Similkameen River. It’s one of the most exciting emerging wine regions in the world. Yes, world. Herder, Orofino, and Seven Stones are especially worth a visit. But they’re small, and not always open when you’re passing through. Calling ahead is always a good idea, and practically essential in this part of the journey.

      And now, some personal favourites you shouldn’t miss. Again, keep in mind that not all of these operate on an open-house policy. It’s always a good idea to call ahead, as only the biggest in the bunch will have fully staffed tasting rooms available for anytime drop-ins.

      Black Hills Despite recent ownership changes, with winemaker Senka Tennant at the helm it remains the producer of some of our finest wines—Nota Bene and Alibi, in particular.

      Blasted Church Fascinating history, quirky cartoon labels—it’s not too early to book yourself in for October’s Midnight Service, which will include gospel music and serious grub from Memphis Blues Barbeque House.

      Blue Mountain Legendary since day one: stylish, elegant bubbly, including the spectacular R. D. Rosé and gorgeous varietals. The Stripe Label Pinot Noir was probably the first red wine produced in B.C. to be taken seriously. The tradition continues.

      Burrowing Owl The winery restaurant, now home to chef Bernard Casavant, is one of the best spots to stop for a bite. A list of library wines—no longer publicly for sale—is always available; they cost correspondingly, of course.

      Elephant Island The orchard winery triumphs over any concerns people have about “fruit wines”. Get set to have your
      palate seriously piqued; the Stellaport is
      particularly tasty.

      CedarCreek This has twice been named Canadian Winery of the Year, in quick succession. It offers consistently award-winning favourites—Chardonnay, Pinot Noir—from a large portfolio.

      Joie Sigh! One of the tiniest, yet one of the greatest. In four short vintages, it has established itself as a major player. Taste everything there is, and buy as much as you can carry—in your car and on your credit card—’cause it’ll all be gone by Wednesday!

      Golden Mile Cellars Here you’ll find fabulous blends, both red and white, under the Road 13 label, plus major medal-winning varietal whites like the Black Arts Chardonnay. Yes, it is $35—ouch—but hey, who’s it for, then?

      Gray Monk This is one of the earliest B.C. pioneers. It’s still family-held, with the next generation of Heisses in charge, and there’s no letup in quality clear across the board, especially in the Odyssey label.

      See Ya Later Ranch Whimsical, dog-friendly (get the whole story about the property), and makers of a few brilliant wines, notably Ping, Jimmy My Pal, and Pinot 3.

      Jackson-Triggs This one continues to prove the new adage “You don’t have to be small to be good” by collecting accolades from around the world. Here’s where the world’s best Shiraz came from: their 2004 vintage was so awarded in 2006. There’s probably none left now, but the current vintage is just as good and will reward cellaring. Also, try to get your tongue around some of the Osoyoos Larose or the lower-priced but not lesser quality Pétales d’Osoyoos.

      Kettle Valley, St. Hubertus, Laughing Stock, La Frenz: take your pick for stunning Pinot Noir; Riesling and Chasselas; Meritage-style blends; and Shiraz, respectively. There’s Quails’ Gate for Pinot Noir that’s excellent on several levels, and some of the valley’s last remaining Maréchal Foch, made right. Head to Sandhill at Calona
      for the limited-release series of blends—named one, two and three—or varietals, in particular Barbera, Sangiovese, Malbec, and Petit Verdot.

      Wild Goose has astonishing Riesling and Gewí¼rztraminer. Pay a visit to Tinhorn Creek for Kerner icewine that’s to die for, and lovely Cabernet Franc. Summerhill has all those pyramid-aged wines and B.C.’s biggest selection of bubbles, including some aged ones. Sumac Ridge—a favourite since they opened—has the Private Reserve Gewí¼rztraminer and the rosé that’s perfect for start-of-May picnicking. Nk’Mip, the world’s second aboriginal-owned and -operated winery (the first in North America), has a yard-long list of outstanding wines at several levels, the Qwam Qwmt line being particularly pleasing.

      There, I haven’t helped a bit, only served to confuse you more. You won’t have time to get to a quarter of these anyway, but keep the column for next time, right there in the glove box as a bookmark in John Schreiner’s book. Drop a note if you feel like it, and let me know how you made out and what you liked best in this happily bewildering wine region, right in our own back yard.

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