Groans were heard when the Kitsilano Café (2394 West 4th Avenue) shut recently and showed signs of gentrification. Sure enough, the huge inflatable beer bottle that hung from the ceiling is no more. The new twig-brown décor is sleek and modern, the menu has everything from izakaya fare and brown-rice sushi to congee and “Chinoise” dishes. The place is under new management as Mandala Iki Asian Bistro, with some of the original staff. The bargain breakfast (now called brunch, and weekends only) is a bit more than it was, but it’s still only $5 for the eggs, bacon, and toast deal. Gone are the hash browns; now you get red-skinned spuds, roasted with mushrooms, onions, and thyme sprigs. Also to try: French toast with red-bean spread and maple syrup.