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Another batch of new wines ripe for picking

Following in the lees of a column a couple of weeks back, here are more newcomers that can be found on local shelves—some in the government stores, some at VQA outlets, a couple from one of the best of the private shops.

Two French Sauvignon Blancs from the Loire are carving a tasty swath, especially at wine-savvy restaurants. Thierry Delaunay TYDY 2006 is the better buy of the two, but its companion, Joël Delaunay Val de Loire 2006 ($18.99), has the edge in the taste department. At $13.99, TYDY represents remarkable value, showing off big, lemon-fresh flavours; a full and smooth ride along the palate; and a whistle-clean finish, resulting in an immediate clamour for more.

You can find the Val de Loire on the lunch list at Pied-à-Terre these days, and that’s where it belongs—a perfect lunch wine for many of the menu items offered there. This is a full, rich Sauvignon Blanc, showing hints of hay and a slight bite of asparagus amid the many flavours parading across the palate. Despite the fact that it’s much paler than the cheaper one, it’s a lot bigger in the finish. Ideal as a prawn-and-lobster-broil wine, or as an accompaniment to fresh fish simply sauced, seafood salad, or your best clam-sauced pasta.

There may not be much left of the next two; you’ll be hounding your neighbourhood VQA merchant for supplies, or calling the winery directly. Pender Island’s enterprising—and somewhat controversial—vineyard and winery, Morning Bay, only got 35 cases’ worth of Pinot Gris 2006 ($21) off their Mount Menzies vineyard, the first release of Pinot Gris from their own vines, planted in 2002. There’s a slight pink hue to look at and a big citrus nose to sniff. The wine wants food to show its best aspects—anything that’s lemon-sauced—and it might even stand up to artichokes (which it’s alleged no wine is able to do; here’s a worthy bit of palate research for the undertaking.)

At the price, it has considerable competition out there, but I don’t think the Morning Bayers are worried. I mean, 35 cases? I enjoyed the unusual Morning Bay Estate Gewürztraminer-Riesling 2006 better all on its own; it’s very bright and fresh, still quite citric, with a lingering finish and none of the floral-sachet aspect of many Gewürztraminers. This is the winery’s first estate release, and it goes for $19.

I doubt if there’s much of the 80-case release remaining. Fine for some of that fresh halibut that’s in the shops right now, and surprisingly compatible with the rack of lamb out of Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby’s How to Cook Meat.

Of course, red meat likes red wine, and here are a couple of Californians from the house of Cline that are just the ticket. You’ll pay $26.99 for each one. The Ancient Vines Zinfandel 2006 is a beauty, something of an old-style Zin (as you would expect from grapes grown on 80- to 100-year-old vines), very hearty but not raunchy, as a lot of hastily grown and -made Zinfandels often are. It’s big and beefy, rich and roasty—all those good things. When turkey-and-trimmings time comes again, here’s your table’s new best friend.

Mourvèdre is the principal grape for the rosés of Provence, but a few California wineries are toying with it. Cline’s Ancient Vines Mourvèdre 2006 is sublime stuff easily worth the asking price, and a great companion to herb-roasted meats and right through to the chocolate cake after. You can taste superripe black plums in here, and lots of nice and easy spice; tannins are all tamed to a purr, and the finish goes on half the night. A new favourite, for sure, and for as long as it lasts.

You’ll find these two at the elegant but accessible Sutton Place Wine Merchant, downtown on Burrard Street: Montes Classic Series Sauvignon Blanc 2006, from Chile, and Crios de Susana Balbo Malbec 2006, from Argentina. Both are exclusive to the store, at least for the time being.

The Sauvignon Blanc is a blend from two Chilean growing regions, and it’s serious Sauvignon—dry, with a little bit of vanilla, some gentle hints of sweetness, and lovely weight and balance. It’s full and crisp and fruity, and truly food-friendly. Serve it cool but not iced. Don’t keep it around too long—it’s perfect right now. The price is right, at $18.95.

And the Crios de Susana Balbo is the one Malbec you must buy this month. Argentina is cornering the market with this grape variety; there are dozens in town right now, and more to come. (In June, the LDB is doing a big Argentina promotion in its stores, so you may want to get a jump on it now.) Crios de Susana Balbo strikes me as the best Malbec you can buy right now, at the price—$21.95.

Massive wine but smooth and supple, with great colour, lots of smoky oak, and sweet, ripe cherries rolling over the tongue. If there’s such a thing as the wine equivalent of a big bowl of sun-ripe blackberries and fresh cream, this is it. Despite the fact that it’s absolutely huge in the glass, it’s so soft and mellow as to take your breath away. I’ve tasted a lot of Malbec in the last 18 months, but I’ve never been so instantly smitten with one. After the roast, there was that applewood-smoked Cheddar and a couple of those new apples called Jazz, and then sticky toffee pudding, and the wine acquitted itself like a champion throughout. Case-worthy, for sure. Get it while you can.

May I make amends for an odd little glitch? In the column of two weeks ago [“Wines spring up: fresh, fruity, and scrubby, too”, April 24–May 1], which also listed some new wines, there was a reference to some New Zealand Riesling toward the end of the piece. I didn’t much care for the Villa Maria Riesling 2006—still don’t—but suggested the same label’s Marlborough Chardonnay. At least, that was the intention. Somehow it came out as Riesling, repeated, which must have confused you. Did me.

So then, do try the Chardonnay ($16.99 is very good value). It’s pleasantly grapey and quite big and bold, but not oaky or oily, with lots of curious fruit and veggie components—yellow plums and tart green apples and celery leaf and freshly shredded kale. Unusual and very green in colour and flavour. This one would be a terrific ringer in an all-Chardonnay blind tasting. Nobody’d guess its origin.

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