As we hunker down for months of drizzle, it’s time to turn on the oven—and keep it on. On a cold, damp day, a bubbling stew simmering slowly in the oven defines the hearth of the house. And there’s something especially primal about preparing and serving food in a timeless, earthy vessel.

For centuries, people worldwide have cooked food slowly in heavy pots with tight-fitting lids. In local stores, such pots are often labelled Dutch or French ovens. They’re usually made of cast iron or ceramic.

Restaurateur Laurent Devin of Kitsilano’s Bistrot Bistro explains that enamelled cast-iron cookware is perfect for braising. “It’s a staple in every French family—you have one piece minimum,” he says. “My grandmother used to use it, my parents got rid of it, and my generation is going back to it.”

That’s because the cast iron retains heat, allowing slow, moist, even cooking. “It’s very durable,” he says, adding that although good-quality pieces are expensive, they last a lifetime. He has experimented with cheaper varieties but says the enamel gets chipped and the cast iron isn’t as thick, concluding that “the price you pay is what you get”.

Whichever cooking vessel you choose, bring it to the table with pride. Part of the pleasure is enjoying the burst of colour these pieces inject into a dreary day.