Old-school glamour’s great. But you can’t exactly sashay down South Main in a beaded Jean Louis gown. And good luck trying to find a Bardot-inspired pencil dress big enough to fit past your waist. (Speaking of which, did they not have ribs in the ’50s?)

It’s a dilemma that Vancouver designer Erin Joy Stanfield reconciles with her new label, Maudlin & Joy, where the focus is on “wearable vintage”.

While all of her designs are completely original, Stanfield admits she tends to draw inspiration from the silver-screen icons of yesteryear. The result is a collection of timeless pieces with modern twists. Translated: they actually fit chicks with hips! Not only that, her 2009 spring line isn’t in-your-face retro. It’s more of a subtle nod and wink to the golden age of fashion.

“I grew up on old films, which is probably why I like classic lines,” says Stanfield, who sat down with the Straight at her one-woman SoMa studio. “That’s why they’re all named after some of my favourite actresses.”

Her casual glamour concept is a long way from her first line, mothertrucker, a label with a great name but no vision. Inspired by a road trip from Vancouver to New York, Stanfield started mothertrucker as more of a cool art project than anything else—one allowing her to incorporate her photography and silk-screening skills.

For the most part, mothertrucker consisted of deconstructed streetwear and embellished gender-bending underwear. But as Stanfield got more complex with her designs, silk-screening ginch was no longer creatively fulfilling enough for her.

“I think at one point it was sort of fun and it was sort of a hobby,” says Stanfield of those heady mothertrucker days. “But as I started doing this more and more, I realized what I enjoyed about it was the designing aspect of it.”

So in 2008 she took a season off to regroup and rebrand her label. After all, her evolving design direction didn’t exactly suit such a rock ’n’ roll name. Now, six months later, she’s ready to debut Maudlin & Joy, an undertaking that is anything but a hobby. Girlfriend works her pattern-drafting butt off.

“It’s the most unglamorous job you could probably ever have,” says Stanfield with a laugh. “I tell my interns to go to plumbing school. ”˜You’ll make more money.’ I spend a hell of a lot of time alone and a hell of a lot of time waging my anxiety debt and idea concepts.”¦It’s like having a kid—you constantly worry and monitor it. So I don’t know how fashion got such a glamorous rep. You really have to love it.”

Luckily, she does, and it shows in the details. For the breezy cotton Pickford dress ($160), she painstakingly sewed every covered button by hand.

“Which was ridiculous,” says Stanfield, with the power of hindsight. “I don’t think I’ll ever do that again. It took many hours and many friends to finish.”

Other highlights from her modest collection—which is available at Shop Cocoon (3345 Cambie Street), dream (311 West Cordova Street), little dream (130–1666 Johnston Street on Granville Island), and Hum Clothing (3623 Main Street)—include the “Novak” ($120), a steel-blue and cream sailor-esque yolk blouse.

Then there’s the Bergman overalls ($210). With drawstrings cinching in the waist and ankles, this is a versatile (not to mention forgiving) answer to this year’s touted one-piece pantsuit.

“I just wanted it to be really fitted well and yet still be really comfortable, so it could be the one thing you want to put on all the time,” explains Stanfield.

In terms of capturing the retro vibe, the Loren ($190) is a standout. This black-and-white raw-silk belted dress has all the timeless chic of those frustratingly small vintage pencil dresses. The only difference is this one will actually fit a millennium-sized woman, something that Stanfield is very mindful of.

“As I get older, too, I personally want something that I look good in,” she says, adding, “but I don’t necessarily want the love handles popping out everywhere.”

Amen, sister!