A long way from its tenniswear roots, iconic label Fred Perry earns its cult-cool status among working-class musicians and indie types of all stripes with everything from men’s classic polos and checked trousers to this retro mini dress from its women’s Laurel Line.

Back in the early '80s, you'd have been hard-pressed to find Fred Perry sportswear anywhere in Vancouver. As young mods—members of a subculture steeped in music, fashion, and Italian motor scooters—my friends and I searched in vain, spurred on by mentions of the British brand in books, magazines, and, of course, the movie Quadrophenia.

We eventually found a single supplier, a small family-owned sporting-goods shop on Robson Street called Goro's. We'd frequently drop by to see what was new, and the shopkeeper (Mr. Goro, I presume) would drag some polo shirts out from under the counter. They'd usually be fairly plain, but Fred Perrys were always instantly recognizable due to their iconic laurel-wreath logo. On rare occasions, there would be a striped sweater or a brightly coloured shirt, and you'd feel like you'd really scored, mostly because the whole process had a bit of a conspiratorial, black-market air to it.

Flash-forward to today and not only is Fred Perry widely available in Vancouver, the label has many more styles and colours on offer. With a full line of clothing ranging from athletic to dressy, the iconic brand has over the years been adopted by adherents of numerous subcultures, including mods, rude boys, skinheads, and the northern soul scene. Simply put, it's been a long, strange trip since the company was founded by three-time Wimbledon champ Fred Perry in 1952.

“The products initially started with tenniswear, but it evolved,” says Sue Kuruvilla, marketing director for Fred Perry's Canadian distributor, CSC Apparel. “It really sort of became the uniform”, she continues, “through the ages, of each decade, of that sort of working-class musician/artist/indie scene”. Even today, Fred Perry is all about remaining true to its lineage (and core market): “We really try to stay deeply entrenched within the music industry and maintain those roots,” Kuruvilla explains. “It's what the laurel stands for—you know you're getting a classic piece.”

Today, Fred Perry has three different fashion lines: the more traditional Main Line, the fashion-forward Laurel Line, and Collaborations, which features up-and-coming designers such as Raf Simons (creative director at Jil Sander) and Jessica Ogden (of A.P.C.'s Madras line). Notable musicians, such as Paul Weller and the Specials have designed for Fred Perry as well.

For this year's spring-summer collection, each line has its direction, though they all share a firm footing in the brand's storied past. According to Kuruvilla, the women's Laurel Line “takes its inspiration from what they call the spirit of '69—it's Jamaican music influencing British culture. Sleeveless polos in black, champagne, white, and gold [$115]; there's a retro mini gingham dress [$185], slim-fitted knit dresses [$185], classic shift dresses [$165]—very '60s-inspired.”

“The men's Laurel Line takes its roots from the rude boys,” Kuruvilla continues. “There's bleached brights; slim woven shirts [$185]; a lot of madras checks; clean, slim trousers [$255]—it's all about detailing and fabrication.”

Also taking its inspiration from the past is the women's Main Line, drawing cues from the Beat Generation writers of the late '50s and early '60s. “They take the classic Fred Perry shirt [$85] and make it a lot more feminine,” Kuruvilla says, “so the silhouette is simple and clean.”

You can find Fred Perry at Gravity Pope (2203 West 4th Avenue), Hills of Kerrisdale (2125 West 41st Avenue), the Block (350 West Cordova Street), J2 Sneaker Box (Oakridge Centre), Ray Rickburn (2100 West 4th Avenue), Vespa of Vancouver (1535 West 4th Avenue), and Harry Rosen (Pacific Centre Mall and Oakridge Mall). With that kind of availability, you won't have to go searching the way we did 25 years ago.