Sipping off the beaten path

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      Got one more semi-Sauvignon leftover that didn’t make it into last week’s roundup as we present another batch of Acts of Random Wineness: ascending the Storks’ Tower, tooling around Oak Bay, visiting the offspring of Susana Balbo, and checking in once again with those Young Punks from Down Under. For anybody who likes to sip something off the beaten track, here’s your shopping list.

      Storks’ Tower Sauvignon Blanc/Verdejo 2008 ($12.99)
      Verdejo, the white grape from Spain’s Rueda region, meets old Bordeaux standby Sauvignon Blanc and imparts a little of its frequently found nutty flavours. A delicious and mellow late-summer dinner wine. The red blend below from the same label is even tastier.

      Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontes 2008 ($18.99)
      At nearly $20, this had better be good. It doesn’t disappoint: fresh and bright, with lots of citrus aromas right out of the glass; aromatic and crisp. “No oak” says the winemaker of this luscious treat, perfectly made from the grape that originated in Galicia and now does very well in Chile (so how come we don’t have any Chilean Torrontes listed here?) and, as in this case, Argentina.

      Four reds follow, before we wrap it up with a sweet white.

      Storks’ Tower Tempranillo-Shiraz 2006 ($14.99)
      This finds the ubiquitous Spanish grape blended with the even more ubiquitous—is that an oxymoron I see before me?—Australian one, to appealing result. Here’s big, dark extract and lots of blackberry jam; there are a dozen autumn stews and casseroles you’ll soon be encountering for which this is the perfect foil.

      St. Hubertus Oak Bay Pinot Meunier 2007 ($15.99)
      There isn’t much of this Champagne grape and Bordeaux blender being produced varietally in B.C. anymore. One of the best was made by Lang in Naramata, but I don’t see it in their lineup now. The “little brother of Pinot Noir” shows with a bright carmine colour. It’s lively and light in body (but full of fruit—plenty of red plums), and the winery’s Gebert brothers suggest you try it “well chilled”¦as an aperitif”, as well as with “grilled quail with pistachio and pomegranate or duck confit with caramelized rutabaga and risotto”. Why didn’t I think of that? Do stand it alongside your favourite Pinot Noir one of these days and compare the flavours.

      Some Young Punks The Squid’s Fist 2007 ($27.99)
      The bulk of the blend is Chianti’s Sangiovese (61 percent), the balance is what Australia’s got the most of—Shiraz, which works wonders with the often overly acidic Sangiovese. It smoothes and mellows it, imparting a richness of ripe fruit and the attendant tannins. Get a crown roast going and maybe some Yorkshire pudding, or baked potatoes with all the fixings, and there’s a Sunday feast. And if you find the inside of your cheeks getting all tannin-puckery, remember the antidote to take before you go to bed: a slice of cold roast beef as rare as you can find it. Presto! It’s like your cheeks puff out again.

      Some Young Punks Passion has Red Lips 2007 ($28.99)
      Here’s one more from the Punks. The added dollar doesn’t diminish the greater appeal of the Squid. A major mouthful, this; a bit on the brawling side. I doubt if you could blacken anything on the barbecue to overwhelm it. Same Punks produce a sparkling Shiraz, not seen here right now, called Naked on Roller Skates and a couple of other red blends, Quickie! and the Fire in Her Eyes, with similar good-kitsch graphics. Wonder what they’d do with a white. Would they do a white?

      Montlouis sur Loire Moelleux Clos du Chateau de Mosny 2005 ($26 for 500 millilitres)
      For pudding, here’s a treat. The LDB still lists the 2003 in the system, but this newer vintage has started to make its way into stores. As was the case with the earlier one (first described here in June 2007), it’s a stunning example of the absolute apotheosis (another oxymoron? Maybe we’ll go for the hat trick today”¦) This is rich to the point of being overwhelming, with super-ripe apricot and a welcome hint of bitter almond. There are wines that go well with dessert, and then there are those that are dessert, like this one. A rare taste experience; no wonder it wowed the judges in Paris the year of its vintage, when they awarded it unanimous gold.

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