Can’t make any decent red wines in B.C., they used to say, the ubiquitous they who know nothing and expound on everything. Rubbish, said the winemakers, and set out to prove them wrong. They soon did, and here’s my proof, based on tastings from the past 12 months.

This is the annual BOYs list—Best of the Year, domestic reds. It’s $15 to $65 per bottle for the pleasure, and pleasures there are aplenty. Availability might be problematic for some; at least one (noted below) I know is sold out.

St. Hubertus Gamay Noir ($14.99) and Pinot Meunier ($15.99)
We start with two from St. Hubertus’s Oak Bay Vineyard series, both 2007s. The Gamay is made in typical Beaujolais style and was one of the best food wines this past summer. The Meunier is one of the three essential grapes that go into true Champagne, and chilled it makes a fabulous apéritif. If you haven’t discovered St. Hubertus wines yet, make it a quest for the year ahead. Can’t beat them for value and quality.

Second Crossing Merlot 2007 ($18)
Spicy and mellow, round and rich; fine value.

Road 13 Honest John’s Red 2008 ($18.99)
This continues the burgeoning trend of excellent Okanagan blends, with Merlot, Cabernet, Pinot Noir, and a little Cinsault. Big and surprisingly fresh (that’d be the Pinot talking); delicious with lamb.

Pentage Gamay 2008 ($20)
Another one with that big burst of fruit and spice. Not enough of our winemakers make Gamay, because not enough of them know how. Soon as you fire up the barbecue for the season, lay in a few bottles of this deft little number.

Twisted Tree Six Vines 2007 ($21.90, sold out at the winery, and no wonder)
A Meritage-style blend of six Bordeaux varieties, and one of the best cheese wines of the past year.

Township 7 Merlot 2006 ($24.99)
Multimedal winner that has a lot of life left in it, if you were savvy enough to lay some in. Try it with chocolate and fleur de sel.

Road 13 Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($27.99)
Nothing less than a hat trick for this winery on this list this year. Here’s a full, fresh Cab, mellowed with a little Cab Franc for richness and a beautiful finish. Bless the screw cap.

Van Westen Voluptuous 2006 ($29.90)
Rob Van Westen’s now-predictably-brilliant blend is mostly Merlot, the rest Cabernet Franc for cherry-rich fruit with plenty of pepper. It’s one of the biggest dinner reds out there right now. If you’ve got it, hold it; 2012 might be about the right time to pop the cork.

Stoneboat Pinotage Solo Barrel Reserve 2007 ($32)
If you like pinotage, you’ll love this expression of it: still massive tannins but the mellowing has begun. A fiery, spicy finish; intense and heady wine.

Road 13 Fifth Element 2006 ($34.99)
A killer blend with a hint of sweetness, long-finish, and likely long-keeping. I thought rare-grilled baseball steak and avocado with lime”¦

Laughing Stock Portfolio 2007 ($38.90)
The fifth consecutive vintage of this major award winner blends Meritage varieties: Merlot, the two Cabs, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. They did make 2,750 cases, so there’s likely still some to be had. Also magnums and doubles. Probably keeps nearly forever.

Ex Nihilo Merlot 2006 ($42)
But there were only 500 cases of this one, so good luck. One of the most elegant Merlots to come down the pike, with lots of spice and herbs; state-of-the-art stuff.

Black Hills Nota Bene 2006 ($42.90)
If you know and love this iconic Okanagan wavemaker you will have your supply secured, and all’s right with the world. If you don’t and didn’t, ditto “Good luck.” High-end-restaurant wine lists will be the place to look. Always worth the wait, the fuss, the money.

Le Vieux Pin Belle 2006 ($45) and Apogee 2006 ($65)
The two top price tags can be found on proprietarily named reds from the same winery, Le Vieux Pin: a Pinot Noir called Belle and a Merlot called Apogée. While I really don’t like the messy-to-open blob of wax or whatever it is atop the cork, it does give way to a remarkable Pinot Noir: big, big, big; not so much Burgundy as what? The Negev? If you can afford a case, adopt me.

And if you can afford a case of the Apogée, maybe you can adopt the whole household, dog included! It clocks in at more than 15-percent alcohol, and exhibits fresh-roasted coffee, beef and barley broth, chocolate and malt, all cloaked in a beautiful Welch’s grape juice colour. Not so much a wine as a whole dinner in a glass, this. But it does cost $65. Maybe try one, just to see how it goes down.

And in the meantime, I’ll be looking for the definitive $12 B.C. red. There’s a quest”¦