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Sweet, fizzy, icy wine reflections

Cover all your festivities with (from left) See Ya Later Ranch Nelly, Elephant Island the Little King, and Seven Stones Rosé.

By Jurgen Gothe,

And with this column we wave them goodbye, another season of BOYs—Best of the Year wines from all corners, all varieties, all prices. Just this bit of mopping up: rosé and other pinks, icewines and other sweet wines, and, to say “Cheers”, a couple of stellar sparklers.

If you lay in one of each you’ll have a year’s worth of festive occasions covered, to say nothing of endless desserts.

Seven Stones Speaking Rock Rose 2008 ($18.99)
Just a tank sample of this all–Pinot Noir convinced me it was even betterthan the ’07; thank goodness they doubled last year’s minuscule supply. Full and fruity enough to handle anything from Lucy Waverman’s make-ahead squash-and-pancetta soufflé to a grilled T-bone.

JoieFarm Rose 2008 ($18.90)
“Rethink pink” is their manifesto; winemakers Michael Dinn and Heidi Noble have been doing it since their first release. Super dinner pink for richly sauced dishes featuring shrimp, crab, or scallops.

St. Hubertus Frizzante Rose 2008 ($14.99)
From the winery that has a wealth of delicious wines to be discovered came one of the year’s loveliest pinks. For fish that’s raw, ceviche’d, or lightly cooked, and—when the time comes—really ripe strawberries. Or a mango mousse.

8th Generation Pinot Meunier Rose 2007 ($17.90)
This initial release of barely 300 cases was the perfect pink to lay to rest that old kvetch about rosé being too light. Send it out to do battle with acidic foods like tomatoes, or even artichokes.

Stoneboat Faux Pas Rose 2008 ($17)
After Christmas dinner, I found a recalcitrant bottle of this in the back of a bin and brought it out to have with turkey soup and broiled asparagus. First taste, back in August, impressed with its rib-sticking-ness. Still does.

See Ya Later Ranch Nelly 2008 ($16.99)
This must be one of the biggest rosés you’ll ever encounter, with ultra-ripe fruit; big, bold berry flavours; and a massive follow-through for the finish. Perfect with a deli-counter dinner spread.

Prominent on the list of sweets—I still like the Aussie term for them, the “stickies”—are icewines, and according to projections and plans that have crossed my desk, there are plenty more to come. All but one (indicated) are 375-millilitre (half) bottles.

See Ya Later Ranch Ehrenfelser Icewine 2006 ($50.01)
Excellent acidity—the most important part of good icewine in my book—as well as fine, full yet subtle fruit. Wine as dessert, not for it.

Inniskillin Okanagan Discovery Series Tempranillo Icewine 2007 ($99.99)
One of the costliest icewines in the B.C. book—and one of the most intriguing, with ideal alcohol (under 10 percent), intense colour, along with huge fruit and a sugar kick that lasts forever. I doubt they’ve got any of this grape done up like this back in Spain. And even at a C-note they may not have any left in the Okanagan, either.

Stoneboat Verglas Oraniensteiner Icewine 2007 ($54.90)
What a nice surprise to find this grape a) still being grown in the south Okanagan, and b) left to hang to make a unique icewine, even if only in an 80-case lot of half bottles. Ancient vines yielded tiny amounts of this marzipan/peach/almond-edged fruit; crystal clear with gorgeous acidity. One for the vaults.

Working Horse Winery Tilman Ice Riesling Icewine 2006 ($160)
It announced itself with its iconic creator’s name and the heftiest icewine price tag yet. Collectors hoovered it up, and who’s surprised? Intense in every aspect: sweetness, acidity, finish, longevity. A hallmark against which the rest of the world’s icewines must take their measure.

In addition to icewine, there are other sweet treats produced here, and in considerable variety. The year’s top three, then.

Vista d’Oro Walnut Wine 2007 ($50 for 500 millilitres)
The French have an interesting tradition of walnut wines, and as far as I can determine, this is the first one to be commercially released not just in B.C. but in Canada. Rich and sherrylike; perfect for shortbread and plum cake, pecans and dried nectarines. And chocolate. Always chocolate. The better, more innovative private wine stores about town have it. Or know how to get it.

Elephant Island Stellaport n/v ($27.99)
They say “nonvintage”, but it’s really the 2009 release of this solera-method port-style wine made from the sweetest cherries in the known universe—Stellas, grown on the winery property. The “mother barrel” was filled in 2001; each year half of the volume is released and the current year’s wine replaces it. So we’ve got wine that’s been eight-plus months in French oak, doing its mellow thing. Year after year, this amazing wine continues to define what dessert-wine making is in B.C., helping to keep us aware of the fact that there is life after icewine, and it’s often even better. A unique wine that’s been on this list for several years. I can’t imagine why it would leave, all that good solera stuff bubbling around in there and all.

Elephant Island Crab Apple Wine 2008 ($17.95)
A hit at the James Beard House in New York, it starts with bright candy-apple flavours that soon morph into true Crabs—tart and edgy. Goes with desserts, of course, but also good ’n’ peppery game pí¢té and runny cheese. Pour it blind for Someone in the Know, and see what sort of reaction you get.

Elephant Island The Little King 2007 ($24.95)
And speaking of bubble, there was never much of this about, at 100 cases released, but somewhere there still lurk a few bottles of this fantastic-for-food, apple-based sparkler. Dry and crisp and full in the mouth, with a lovely pink colour and a breathtaking finish.

Road 13 Sparkling Chenin Blanc 2006 ($29.99)
I don’t know if cellarmaster Bailey Williamson made any subsequent vintages, but based on this initial outing he should have. I still have a few bottles from the case I bought, and I bring it up for themed (or themeless, even better!) dinners. Heady, fruity, crisp and bracing, and best of all—the thing all sparkling wine should aspire to—fine for food.