Laughing Stock Viognier is full of fresh acidity, honey, and hibiscus.

Two new whites, two rosés, and two-and-a-half new reds—these recent releases by a few long-standing favourite wineries venture into new varietal territory.

Mission Hill Reserve Viognier 2008 ($18.99)
I think this is Mission Hill’s initial outing on the ever-expanding Viognier bandwagon. It’s a good price for this popular varietal, well put together in a strong—okay, assertive is better—very fruity, creamy and rich summer sipper. Look for the winemaker’s suggestions of “an abundance of stone fruit, spice notes, and a lovely fragrance of orange blossom”, and somewhere among all that it even tastes of well-ripened Viognier fruit. One of Mission Hill’s best newcomers this season.

Laughing Stock Viognier 2009 ($26.10)
I know that this is this famous Okanagan winery’s inaugural release of Viognier. Taste some state-of-the-art V: floral and fruity and rich as can be, with a stunning approach and follow-through to a long and lingering finish. Not everyone will like the nearly 15-percent-alcohol kick, but there’s enough fresh acidity to hold it in check, and all that honey and hibiscus really make it happen all along the palate. Your favourite private wine store may have some; the winery certainly still does.

Stag’s Hollow Syrah Rose 2009 ($17.99)
If you love it pink, this is a truly brilliant food rosé that we’ll meet again when it gets to be best-of-the-year-roundup time (if there’s any left, that is.) To an abundance of Syrah, they’ve added nine-percent Viognier and a hint of Muscat, at one percent. The formula achieves a heady, full and fragrant wine with astonishing depth of fruit—berries and a hint of orange—resulting in one of the great rosés of my tasting experience. Seek it out as soon as you can, for when the summer really starts.

Tinhorn Creek Oldfield Series 2Bench Rose 2009 ($20)
Mostly Merlot, at nearly 50 percent, plus a hefty shot of Cabernet Franc and eight-percent Pinot Gris—that’s the formula for this big lunch-and-dinner wine taking its place alongside the lovely 2Bench White, which has fuelled some great summer meals with past vintages. Forget wimpy candy-floss flavours; this is hale and hearty stuff with lots of strawberry essence, pink grapefruit, even rhubarb. For pí¢té-laden baguettes, strong cheeses, lentil salad, a crab boil on the deck. This one is available to Tinhorn Creek Crush Club members only. (There wasn’t a lot of it made.) See the winery'sWeb site for details.

Based on these two pink keepers—and a handful of others already tasted this year—big, bold rosé may be the Okanagan’s hot new hit.

Twisted Tree Gamay Noir 2008 ($17.90)
The South Okanagan’s Twisted Tree winery has come up with some imaginative blends, as well as single varietals. The Gamay Noir rolls over the tongue with a characteristic cherry/raspberry splash, fresh and bright and full-fruited; it gives the St. Hubertus Frizzante a run for its money. Gamay is the quintessential summer lunch wine—bring out some of those creamy washed-rind cheeses from France.

Second Crossing is Twisted Tree’s second label. They explain its name so on the back labels: “The winery is at the second crossing of Long Creek and Highway 3, east of Osoyoos. Long Creek is a seasonal creek and in some years doesn’t flow at all. The wines, like the creek itself, are an occasional occurrence and are made only in some years, exclusively from grapes grown in South Okanagan vineyards.”

Second Crossing Long Creek Red 2008 ($17.90)
This is quite hard in the finish, with lemon and rosemary wafting to the nose. It definitely wants food, the heartier the better, and may need another year in the bottle to reach its full potential. The mix is mostly Merlot (45 percent), plus Malbec (20 percent), Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah (15 percent each), and Tempranillo (five percent). This is really a bit of a preview since they’re still selling the earlier vintage, which just happened to be at hand and was our tasters’ favourite.

Second Crossing Long Creek Red 2007 ($17.90)
Quite a bit softer than the ’08, with a handsome mellowness and licorice-dark colour. It’s not damning with faint praise to consider it a fine pizza wine; I’m hoping it will show up at Nook on Denman Street one of these days, as an ideal foil for their arugula and prosciutto pizza. It’s also great with pasta puttanesca, smoked turkey leg, and the Black Forest Delicatessen at Park Royal’s buffalo salami and Saint Morgon cheese on Terra Breads’ pumpkin seed levain.

The winery will be your best bet for these three from Twisted Tree, although there is a Vancouver agent in place (Renaissance Wine Merchants) to look after some (mostly restaurant) distribution here in town.

Two upcoming winetasting events for you to check out. “Experience Austria with Master Sommelier John Szabo” takes place on Tuesday (June 29) at the LDB store at 39th and Cambie (5555 Cambie Street) from 5 to 7 p.m. It features wines that may well be new to you, paired with appropriate food.

On Saturday, July 3, Umberto Menghi presents an evening of Italian cooking and new releases from Hester Creek at the newly refurbished winery in the Okanagan. Space is limited; call 250-498-4435 to see if any tickets remain.