Cheese lovers, rejoice. There are four different kinds in this lasagna. It also requires four pots and a frying pan; enlist a helper!

Cheese sauce

4 cups (1 L) 2 percent milk
1/3 cup (80 mL) butter
4 spring onions, chopped
1/3 cup (80 mL) all purpose flour
½ cup (125 mL) grated Parmesan
1 cup (250 mL) grated old cheddar cheese
2 Tbsp (30 mL) sherry or port
Pinch of nutmeg
Salt and pepper to taste

Warm the milk in a saucepan over low heat. In another saucepan, sauté the onions in butter over medium-low heat for 5 minutes, then whisk in the flour. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, then gradually add the warmed milk, whisking constantly. Cook over low heat for 20 minutes, then gradually add the cheese, whisking well after each addition. Add the sherry or port and the nutmeg, taste, add salt and pepper, remove from heat and reserve.

Note: I have had cheese sauces curdle on me before when I’ve added the cheese too fast. If this happens, rescue the sauce by making a new roux with one tablespoon (15 mL) each of butter and flour, cooking it for 2 minutes, and then gradually stirring in the curdled sauce, bit by bit, whisking the whole time.

To assemble

1 Tbsp (15 mL) butter or oil
8 oz (225 g) field, portobello or cremini mushrooms
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 Tbsp (15 mL) soya sauce
1 cup (250 mL) each of grated gruyí¨re, provolone, old cheddar, and Parmesan, tossed together
1 lb (454 g) spinach
12 oz (340 g) smoked salmon, separated into flakes, pin bones removed
12 lasagna noodles, cooked to al dente. Drain, and cover in cold water until you’re ready to start assembling, then drain again in a colander and shake off the excess water. (I never use the no-boil kind, but go ahead if you know and trust them.)

Sauté the mushrooms in the butter or oil over medium heat until they’ve softened, then add garlic and sauté for another 2 minutes. Add the soya sauce, then turn the heat up to medium-high and cook until the mushrooms are dry and start to stick to the pan and caramelize. Remove from heat and reserve.

Steam the spinach until it’s barely cooked and squeeze out any excess water. If the spinach is mature and has stems, chop it roughly when it has cooled. Reserve.

Preheat the oven to 375 °F (190 °C). Butter a 3-quart (3-L) baking pan or casserole dish. Spread a layer of cheese sauce on the bottom with a rubber spatula, sprinkle about ½ cup (125 mL) cheese over top and then lay down the first 3 lasagna noodles. Spread a thin layer of sauce on top, then scatter half the smoked salmon over top, followed by 1 cup (250 mL) of cheese. Layer the next set of lasagna noodles, spread with sauce, and scatter the mushrooms and spinach over top followed by 1 cup (250 mL) of cheese. Repeat with a layer of noodles, sauce, salmon and cheese, then lay down the last three lasagna noodles, cover with the remaining sauce and the remaining cheese.

Bake uncovered for an hour, or until the top is browned and the sides are bubbling, and a knife inserted in the middle comes out hot to the touch. Let stand for 15 minutes before cutting.

Yield: 8 to 12 servings

Recipe adapted fromThe Boreal Gourmet: Adventures in Northern Cooking by Michele Genest (Harbour Publishing, 2010). Reprinted with permission. All rights reserved.