Buttery local sablefish is easy to love. But smoke it lightly, sear it, and serve it with a lobster emulsion on a bed of sea asparagus, and love turns to lust. What’s sea asparagus? It’s a delicate, bright-green marine plant that tastes like a cross between asparagus and fiddleheads, with a salty whiff of the ocean. At Le Gavroche Restaurant (1616 Alberni Street), it goes beautifully with sablefish as one of the entrée choices on the sablefish and lobster $35 three-course menu. This prix fixe runs until August 31.