Most people associate Steveston with fish and chips, but Tapenade Bistro (3711 Bayview Street, Richmond) is quietly turning out much more creative, refined seafood. Executive chef Alex Tung has worked for biggies like Jean-Georges Vongerichten in London and Daniel Boulud in New York, and his talent shows on the plate. The Ocean Wise dishes change with the seasons. The fall menu is just out, with a beautiful pan-seared lingcod ($25) that’s gussied up with a ragout of double-smoked bacon, mushrooms, peas, and pearl onions, all served with spaetzle. Yum.