Old favourites get a fresh take at Locus

Its space defined by tree branches climbing up the walls and illuminated, Green Man-style masks peeking out at you from unsuspecting corners, Locus offers up tasty, difficult-to-define cuisine. An omnivore’s sanctuary, this Main Street eatery serves a wide range of meat-based and vegetarian-friendly appetizers, soups, sandwiches, pastas, and entrées.

Of the appetizers my dining partner and I sampled, the biggest hit was the pulled wild boar poutine. Rather than fries, the poutine was served with roasted nugget potatoes, a decidedly health-conscious twist to a dish that’s usually the definition of indulgent, given that it’s smothered in cheese and gravy. Not that I’m complaining, mind you. Here, though, the cheese curds and mushroom gravy really brought together the filling, starchy potatoes and the gamey, tender wild boar.

Opting to continue my streak of potato love, I went with the homemade potato gnocchi for a main course. Dressed with a light coating of brown butter, the mixture of gnocchi, caramelized onions, baby beets, roasted garlic, pea tendrils, and goat cheese was satisfying without being heavy. The tanginess of the goat cheese really picked up what otherwise would have been a mellow, though delicious, dish.

The verdict? I’d definitely come back for another visit, even if the service was a little unreliable at times.

You can follow Jennie Ramstad on Twitter at twitter.com/jennieramstad.