You're in your favourite clothing store, browsing though all the racks, when a screen-printed skirt catches your eye. What's your first move? Normally you'd check the tag to see if it comes in your size, yes? Not at Babs Studio Boutique (2410 Granville Street). Instead of asking for a small, medium, or large, you ask for a pear, inverted triangle, hourglass, or a rectangle. According to owner-designer Babs Lucas and pattern drafter–designer Tannis Seufert, it's not the size of the wave; it's the bust-to-waist-to-hip ratio that counts.

"Whether you gain weight or not, you were born with a shape," said Lucas, who sat down with the Straight at her South Granville "body-positive" store to talk about the study of anthropometry relating to today's fashion world. "You might get bigger, you might get smaller, but structurally, your dimensions will stay the same."

This concept of form over volume is relatively new for Lucas. Three years ago she started designing her upscale mod-Asian clothing, and like most designers who cater to larger women, she figured bigger was better. But as time went on, she started paying more attention to the different body types and needs of her customers.

"I realized that there's a lot of women out there who are pears and hardly anyone is designing for that shape. And if they are, it's almost accidental," she said. "They'll do something with an Empire waist and use stretch fabric and keep the skirt really full. But not every woman wants to cover up. She might want something really fitted that shows off her curves."

And by curves Lucas doesn't necessarily mean the coveted hourglass–although she does carry the sex-symbol shape in her store (just in case Halle Berry happens to be in the market for a kimono-style dress). However, she doesn't treat this cut like it's the be all and end all.

"The hourglass is somewhat of an artificial shape," she pointed out, "in the sense that it was developed sometime during a period when women wore corsets, bustiers, tummy tuckers, and things that really amplified certain dimensions of their bodies."

This was also the time when mass production was in full swing, so women were no longer having clothes made for their individual selves; the message, Lucas said, was (and still is): "'If you don't fit this shape, then there's something wrong with your body.' And I think that's the missing link with fashion trends today," she continued. For proof, the designer points to the big move toward bringing back the '80s. "A big fat belt in the middle of waist with a big puffy yellow sweater is not going to look good on everybody. I'm not saying that trends should go away. It's just that I'm not designing with trends in mind. My priority is making women look their best."

So you won't find anything from Kate Moss's new TopShop line there, but you will find a lot of Asian-inspired classic pieces like the adjustable Bamboo Pants ($228.95) for pears and hourglasses (basically anyone with a big booty). These straight-legged slacks, which come in a variety of colours, are cropped for that New York–chic look or the West Coast tae kwon do effect. But what makes them so flattering for those of us with childbearing hips is the diagonal tummy panel that basically eliminates muffin tops and the large flat pockets that dwarf enlarged ass cheeks.

For women with the hips of a 12-year-old boy and the shoulders of a world-class swimmer (aka the inverted triangle), there's the sleeveless Osaka top ($88.95). With slits on the bottom sides that flare out to mimic the hourglass and a thick band in the middle to create a waistline, this hobo-chic top seller gives shape where there was none. And for the classic hourglass, there's the Thai Silk Jacket ($189.95). Not surprisingly, it's tailored through the middle, slightly flared at the bottom so it doesn't catch on your heart-shaped ass, and of course you must be blessed with a big ol' rack to pull this one off.

And if you're not sure what style best suits you, don't worry. Lucas is more than willing to let you know.

"I'm not hurtful," she said. "But I'm very, very honest."