Atimely quote to gladden the heart: "The 2006 vintage [in the Okanagan Valley] was that very rare animal, a perfect vintage for both white and red wines...Ideal weather patterns allowed the vines to support a larger than normal crop while still maintaining high quality and excellent intensity of flavour."

Winemakers Heidi Noble and Michael Dinn of Joie put that in their spec sheets, and it's the sort of weather report that puts a spring in my summer step. Now the fruits of that weather and their labours have arrived, and the proof is in the bottles.

Joie wines hit the local scene with a big bang two vintages back; these days, it's full steam ahead for the little Naramata winery. Not all that little, either, compared with some of its neighbours: 4,000 cases (and 950 magnums) spread over five varieties, including a new-this-year Riesling and Muscat. Enough to last till the end of summer? Probably not, if past sales are any indication.

Joie's manifesto is sweet and simple: "Our main focus is aromatic white and rosé wines, with an emphasis on the blending of lots and varietals to achieve natural balance and complexity." That focus is reinforced by an appreciation of Alsatian styles and grapes, and a love for selected German, Italian, and Burgundian directions, too. And they do it better than anyone in this country, so far as I can tell.

The five wines in the current release were all made, as were previous vintages, at the Pentâge Winery south of Penticton, but construction is now under way at home; if all goes according to plan, Joie will be making wines there this fall. A short note on availability: it's short. Selected, and selective, restaurants are your best bet. Think Vij's, for one. And who's surprised, given Vikram Vij's fondness for German-style wines? Private wine stores will have them too, including all six Liberty outlets, Marquis on Davie, Kitsilano and Dundarave Wine Cellars, and Broadway International. (On a related note, Heidi Noble's Menus from an Orchard Table: Celebrating the Food and Wine of the Okanagan [Whitecap Books, $34.95] will be launched in early June at Barbara-Jo's Books to Cooks.)

The Fabulous Five, then.

First is A Noble Blend, its wine "inspired by Alsace" and taking a leaf from the fresh and fruity Edelzwicker table whites from the French north. Gewürztraminer and Kerner, Pinot Blanc and Ehrenfelser, a topping of Riesling–all go into the pot. This wine was a huge hit when it appeared, with its fine fresh nose, fullness of flavour (despite the fact that it's basically the colour of water), and glorious taste and follow-through; as good as any Edel you'll find in Alsace, and better than many. Astonishingly good balance of alcohol to sugar to acid to fruit to..everything. No, $20.90 isn't cheap, but it sure is good.

Next, Chardonnay, mostly from Okanagan Falls grapes, displaying a slightly steely mineral aspect–that pierre à fusil thing they bandy about a lot in Chablis. Joie comes by it naturally: "Our inspiration is derived from the famous unoaked Burgundian Chardonnays of Chablis." This is quite likely the most Chablis-esque Chardonnay to come out of the Okanagan so far. Tart, unoily, all fruit, all well-restrained acidity–overall it's damn fine, but not for everyone. If you cut your Chardonnay teeth on that splintery plywood style, you won't be asking for refills here. Me, I'd grab 10 cases for the summer if I could afford the $19.90-per-bottle hit.

As the footnote on the label says, Riesling is very much "a delicate balance", and this one is delicate in the extreme, if that's not too oxymoronic. More from Dinn and Noble to put it in perspective: "Riesling at its best balances mouth-watering acidity, a touch of sweetness and moderate alcohol [a reasonable 11 percent in this case] in support of aromas and flavours of citrus and tropical fruit, flowers and spice." Riesling, as regular readers know, is my favourite white grape, which predisposes me to liking this beautiful wine. Its aromas are heady and fresh–see, it can be done without that sun-heated-garden-hose thing, that diesel tang. This tastes so good with roast ham and scalloped potatoes. (No, I'm not kidding.) Rich and sweet but not syrupy, it's also fine for spicy, sweet, and sour dishes. Like the legendary Focus, the short-lived but sensational Riesling by Roger Wong–which may still stand as the best Riesling produced in Canada–the Joie folks do nothing wrong when it comes to this excellent variety. This one is also $19.90 and ready to run rings around 80 percent of the Germans now in town. Choucroute time, once more before the summer.

Muscat is new this year, the one Joie calls "the pure grape". Why? Because "it tastes as though you are actually enjoying the grapes themselves." Many of us think of Muscat in terms of muscatel and other sugary drinks; this proves it isn't so. The wine came out at barely 10 percent alcohol, which is the perfect vehicle for the deftness of this fruit and its sugar. A lovely floral nose–fresh flowers, not lingerie-drawer sachets–gives way to delightful lightness on the palate. Not so overt as Gewürztraminer, it's a fine afternoon sipping wine and the first one I ordered for my modest cellar, although I suspect it won't even make it to the cellar if we get a few sunny weekends anytime soon. It costs $18.90; apparently only Vij's and the Vancouver Club will have it on their lists.

Finally, Joie suggests we "rethink pink", no hardship with this dyed-in-the-wine rosé lover. When it comes to rosé, Joie gets it: "well-balanced rosé in its various incarnations is the most versatile wine we know." A blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay, it's gorgeous in the glass and perfect for the table. Fruit first, then some sugar, well in control, then a hint–repeat hint–of candied apple. This is a quality that often appears in clumsier rosés; here, it sits just right on the palate and makes for a stunning pink. Surely one of the best anywhere, anytime–equal to some big faves from Alsace and the south of France. The price is $19.90 per bottle.

More info, order forms, and news of the winery Joie is building, can be found at www.joie.ca/.