Time for Chenin Blanc to get some respect

    1 of 1 2 of 1

      Poor old Chenin Blanc. It’s more than a little underappreciated in our part of the wine world these days. Growers are pulling the grape out by the acre in favour of sauvignon blanc, at least in the Okanagan. It’s not considered a “serious” wine. Fine, let me know when you’re not in the mood to discuss Kierkegaard on the sun deck and I’ll bring this boxful. I guarantee you’ll get some serious pleasure from its constituents.

      Though many California producers blend it into any old white plonk, Chenin reaches its apotheosis in France’s Loire Valley, particularly with Vouvray, the appellation just to the east of the town of Tours. There, it is the only grape variety grown in the vineyards surrounding the village of Vouvray. It makes whites that vary vastly in style and substance—from very sweet to very dry, still or sparkling. The best tend to be medium dry with a touch of sweetness to help offset the sharp acidity, which the local Chenin Blanc is noted for.

      It’s just that sweetness, especially when it presents itself in botrytis-affected grapes, that enables the wines to age incredibly long and well, especially for whites. Some have been known to keep beautifully for 40 or 50 years.

      But South Africa seems to make more of it than anybody. More chenin blanc is grown there than in its French ancestral soil, to the tune of three times as much, making it one of the most widely planted grape varieties in South Africa. That ratio is changing, however, as the world continues its thirst for Chardonnay and Sauvignon. In South Africa it was always known as Steen, but because of increasing international marketing the more familiar Chenin Blanc now appears on most such wines made here.

      So we have sweetness, softness, freshness, some floral aspects—though none as overt as, say, Gewí¼rztraminer—and potential longevity. And we have over a dozen of them at the LDB, more in the private stores: one from British Columbia, two entries (one available in three sizes, including a four-litre gulper pack) from California, the rest all South African, and not all of the wines listed were tasted; some were out of stock in the two stores I visited. A couple of these are blended with Chardonnay, while the rest are pure Chenin Blanc.

      Oh yes, there was one more—from India!

      Once again, we present a baker’s dozen, in ascending price order. But because of the thick sheaf of tasting notes even when pared down to bare essentials, we’ll do it in two parts—cheap to middling today, the high-priced stuff next week.

      TGB California House Reserve Chenin Blanc (n/v) ($6.99) That’s not a typo, that’s the correct price—and that’s what it’s worth, with its raisiny smell and taste, its pallid watery consistency, and sugary finish. The label says dry, but they’re sure stretching the definition of the word.

      Roberts Rock Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay (n/v) ($8.49) Better to go with this South African contender, which has been here for a long while and has fuelled many a summer party and supper. The label calls for all kinds of olfactory things—“guava scents”¦subtle vanilla finish”, but this isn’t a talking wine. It is, however, a good wine with barbecued fish, sushi, shellfish, omelettes, salads, vegetarian casserole, lunch, and brunch; versatile, and excellent value.

      Kumala Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay 2005 ($9.69) Just over a buck more gets you the best buy of the bunch. It’s drier and more Chardonnay-ish than its immediate predecessor, has lots of peaches and pears in the tumbler, is excellent with chicken and pasta salads, and is just a tad more stylish than the Rock. Really, for the money, an outstanding buy.

      Sula Chenin Blanc 2004 ($13.31) This one proudly announces itself as “India’s first Chenin Blanc [grown] 100 miles from Bombay, 2,000 feet above sea level”¦cold-fermented in stainless steel”. It’s much sweeter at the front of the palate than most of the others in this lineup, but there is something appealing about it, even though it shows an odd aftertaste in the finish. But interesting, and it does want food with it. After all that business about longevity, I think this one is too old; a more recent vintage would be interesting for comparison. Promising stuff, though.

      The Winery of Good Hope Chenin Blanc 2006 ($13.99) This is a lovely example of well-done South African Chenin Blanc, super-clean and classy. The initial double take at the 14.5 percent alcohol didn’t manifest in anything roasty; it’s full and hearty, with a hint of sweetness beautifully balanced by a slightly bitter bite in the finish. It’s stylish, and is ideal for all kinds of seafood, crab cakes, shrimp cocktail, or ceviche with a tequila-lime chaser. Five-star stuff, and the price is right.

      Simonsig Chenin Blanc 2005 ($13.99) Pretty, deep green-gold colour; full, even thick texture, but good freshness and follow-through. “A touch of honey” is on the label and it’s true, as it delivers the right raisiny richness so typical of sun-ripened chenin blanc grapes. It’s round and bold, perhaps not as elegant as the Good Hope one but again presents what all really good South African Chenins do: versatile food-friendliness.

      Comments