You never know when a wine will come along that hits the palate with such an impact that you sit up, set down the glass, and make a big fat star or circle in the notebook: “This is one for the Best of the Year box.”

So here come the BOYs—the first of three boxes, the import wines. The template calls for a box and a bit—the proverbial baker’s dozen—and due to innate Teutonicity, I’ve arranged them in order, big price to little.

A note about prices: the LDB changes its monthly, mostly upward, so it’s hard to provide accurate prices for listed products. What is listed here is the price of the wine at the time it was acquired.

ABBE ROUS HELYOS BANYULS MUTE SUR GRAINS 2002 ($79.47) This one’s probably on back order now; I suspect wine sleuths made short work of the 37 bottles I found at the LDB at the beginning of November. Yes, it’s the most expensive on this list, and yes, it’s the most astonishing wine on this year’s list. Gorgeous, heady, brilliant with chocolate; said it then, saying it again: get it before they make it illegal!

WATERSTONE CARNEROS PINOT NOIR 2003 ($34.70) The price is positively bargainish, especially for the first of three Pinot Noirs on the list—huge and deep and robust, the kind of California Pinot that reminds us what all the fuss was, is, and will continue to be about.

CAMARADERIE CELLARS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2001 ($33.70) From the Olympic Peninsula comes a sublime, opulent Cabernet with wonderful mellowness, sensational after five years in the bottle and ready to hold at that level for a good five more.

TOHU PINOT NOIR 2004 ($32.67) This remains one of the best Pinot Noirs I have ever tasted. The Maori winery has it totally in hand with dazzlingly ripe fruit, exquisite aromas, elegance and softness and fullness, and an unforgettable finish. Say it “toe-roo” and you’ll sound like you’ve been there.

SPINYBACK 2004 ($23.77) Another major Kiwi Pinot hit this year is a newcomer from Nelson: luscious, deep fruit; lots of plum juice but none of the stewed-prune aspects; truffles and a touch of pepper.

ALAIN BRUMONT MADIRAN TORUS 2003 ($22.50) The wine’s principal grape ingredient is Gascony’s tannat, which sounds precariously close to tannin, which this lovely vino exhibits very little of, just enough to hold all the diverse flavour components together. It has a huge bouquet of fruit and an intense finish. A full, deep, black wine with serious attitude for a very good price.

KIM CRAWFORD PANSY! ROSE 2003 ($18.99) Here’s a ballsy pink wine—I know California Pinot Noirs that are airier than this!—with garnet colour and pomegranate aromas; mellow but muscular and none of that cotton-candy stuff that comes out in so many pink wines when they warm a little. Plus, Erica Crawford’s notes on the back label say that “Pansy! Is for the gay community: their glamour and generosity inspired it.”

IRONSTONE OBSESSION SYMPHONY 2004 ($16.99) A lovely, full-fruited cross of Grenache Gris and Muscat of Alexandria is only found in California and only from a few wineries. Naturally sweet and gently spicy; fine for anything Thai, Szechuan, or Mexican—or the real-deal caesar with extra anchovies and Parmesan freshly grated off the big block.

GERARD BERTRAND CLASSIC VIOGNIER VIN DE PAYS D’OC 2005 ($14.99) Here’s the best Viognier under 40 bucks in B.C. today. Floral but not Air Wick, crisp and a little almondy for the back palate, a taste of honey. Saw it on several post-holiday dinner tables and at certain restaurants so it likely won’t last long. Proof of what the new South of France is doing so right.

VAN LOVEREN PINOT GRIGIO 2005 ($12.99) This South African sits right at the top of the dozens and dozens of Pinot Gris/Grigios that have flooded our market. Huge, honeyed aromas; fat, ripe fruit; a mile-long, luscious finish—who’s up for salade niçoise, oysters, or artichokes? It’s the only wine I’ve ever encountered that recommends itself to artichokes—very gutsy.

CHATEAU DU PARC COTES DU ROUSSILLON 2003 ($10) Simply the best red-wine buy of the year, this is a classic blend—Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre—big and bold and mellow, spearheading the New South’s departure from astringent, linear reds in favour of full, round, fruity, soft-tannined wines.

CONO SUR GEWURZTRAMINER 2005 ($10) Fresh, crisp, gently Gewürzy; wonderful with chrysanthemum rice and cold spring rolls.

RUDOLF MULLER CLASSIC RIESLING QBA 2005 ($9.99) This was recently discounted, which made it a total steal, so I bought two boxes. Lots of people are afraid of Riesling—too sweet, too flowery—yeah, well, get over it, it’s none of the above; just good, full fruit; a hint of sugar; a lot of character and depth. A more versatile food wine, especially in spring, is hard to imagine. Get yours while it’s gettable.