The clothes on the runway of Adidas Originals' packed opening
party looked straight out of an après-ski party in the Swiss
Alps, circa 1973. That in itself was not surprising: the striped
sweaters, puffy primary-hued parkas, and Moon Boots-real Moon
Boots!-are reissues of pieces the sportswear brand created with
skier-designer Carlo Gruber 30-odd years ago.
What was surreal was that the models weren't selling these
looks for the slopes; instead, they were krumping to the sounds
of a turntablist. Welcome to a world where everything old is cool
again; where yesterday's St. Moritz slalomwear gets appropriated
by the hip-hop generation.
The show was a vivid illustration of the rebirth of a brand.
Whether it's Gruber's iconic skiwear, limited-edition reissues of
the Superstar sneaker (worn by 75 percent of NBA players by
1975), or vibrant retro soccerwear commemorating Mexico's 1970
World Cup, the new flagship at 848 Granville Street taps a
collective nostalgia. Adidas has dug into its own vaults and
brought back the looks of its past, while venturing farther into
streetwear than any of its athletic-oriented competitors. "Every
piece is unique and is rooted in sports history-every piece has a
unique and identifiable story to it," explained Originals product
manager Jessica Pavlin, before the opening show. "There are
pieces taken right out of the archive and reintroduced, but then
we also reinterpret and redevelop products."
To understand what it's doing today, you have to take a look
at the past of a company whose three stripes and leafy "trefoil"
logo are now instantly recognized around the globe. For those who
grew up believing otherwise, Adidas actually derives its name
from its founder, German Adolf "Adi" Dassler, who launched his
sports-shoe brand in 1924 in the village of Herzogenaurach, where
its headquarters remain to this day. He and his then-partner,
brother Rudolph, understood the importance of celebrity
endorsement early on: in 1928, they provided the athletes at the
1928 Amsterdam Olympics with free shoes. It was a strategy that
worked for Adidas throughout its history, including later, in
1971, when Muhammed Ali and Joe Frazier both wore the brand in
their showdown. (Originals has built an entire collection around
iconic pieces from Ali's training camps during those early years,
with sweats, boxing shoes, and other pieces emblazoned with
graphics of the legend's mug, name, and sayings.) By the '80s,
though, Nike's swoosh was overtaking the three stripes amid the
athletic market. But again, the celebrity factor kicked in:
rappers Run D.M.C. took to wearing Superstars and tracksuits and
even devoted a song to the brand ("My Adidas"). That first foray
into hip-hop cred would prove invaluable to the company, but it
was still lagging in the marketplace in the early '90s, when the
Material Girl took to wearing Gazelles and fashioning evening
gowns out of three-stripe tracksuits.
Around that time another even more important trend happened: a
new generation became obsessed with old-school
sneakers-feverishly tracking down real Stan Smiths or Superstars.
Eventually, Adidas started reissuing classic shoes under the
Originals label. That led to reproducing and redesigning vintage
sports clothing-those shiny Europa tracksuits worn most memorably
by Ben Stiller in The Royal Tenenbaums were big on the ramp at
the Vancouver opening-and, eventually, the genesis of the
Originals store, based around "heritage looks". The first two
opened in Berlin and Tokyo in 2001; ours is the first outpost in
Canada.
Originals isn't just about old-school athletics anymore. Style
icon Missy Elliott has teamed up with Adidas to create riffs on
the classic, three-stripe track tops, including one cropped well
above the navel, and another long, curvy coat that reaches below
the hips. This season, there are also preppy-cool Country Club
looks, with blazers and polo shirts emblazoned with the trefoil,
and Japanese-style workwear that looks stolen from the set of the
Beastie Boys' "Intergalactic" video shoot.
Pavlin sums up the success of the strategy this way: "It's
been due to our rich history in sport, but also because it's a
unique fusion of fashion, sport-, and streetwear."
Sure, the company plays up its past, but with its DJs and its
b-boys and -girls, Vancouver's opening party could not have been
something Dassler, the sports-shoe maker, might have imagined. As
for Carlo Gruber, it's safe to say he could never have predicted
those satiny, rubber-platformed Moon Boots would have made such
effective breakdance footwear.