Jessica de Haas's vibrant, textural felt wraps and jackets are
part avant-garde art, part boho-chic-rooted squarely in
contemporary fashion. But the processes she uses to make her Funk
Shui line verge on the primitive. As the artist so aptly puts it:
"I definitely do things the long way."
Seated in her East Side studio, de Haas is surrounded by the
implements of an art form that goes back thousands of years.
Dreadlocks of raw, unbleached wool sprout out of bags, and nearby
are the old-fashioned carding tools she uses to meticulously comb
them into sheets and dye them. Next she has to fuse the wool to
silk using a laborious technique of pouring boiling water over
them and rolling the new material out into a thin, durable
fabric. She then begins sewing and embroidering it into one of
her creations. Her painstaking craftmanship runs in stark
contrast to the world of mass-produced apparel. And that's just
the way de Haas likes it. "It's definitely a tactile process. For
me, the joy is in the creation of the piece. Even if I'm
following some pattern, every piece will be different," she says,
showing the way yellow-green swirls randomly through to
blue-green on one wrap.
Soon, Vancouverites will be able to watch firsthand: de Haas
is preparing to move into a spot at 1375 Railspur Alley on
Granville Island. Opening later this month, Funk Shui Atelier
will have a workspace as well as a shop selling her one-of-a-kind
looks, including smaller items like hats, scarves, and flower
pins. "People are really separated from the creation process of
most clothing," she observes. "This opens their eyes and they can
appreciate it as an ancient art form being lost."
Textiles have intrigued de Haas for years. In the late '90s,
she started studying fibre arts at the Kootenay School of Art.
Since then she has studied them around the world, including a
stint in Indonesia learning traditional batik dyeing techniques.
De Haas comes to felt-making from a visual-arts background, and
her pieces display the attention to texture, form, and colour
that you might find in a soft sculpture. Yes, they're wearable
art, but they have much more of a fashion edge than that term
might convey. Jackets curve to fit the body, cinch at the waist
with ties, or have ruffly silk edging along their bell sleeves,
while wraps come tacked at the sides for a hip kimono/bat-wing
effect. And the cutout shapes she fuses right onto the felt and
covers in scrolling embroidery are just random enough to look
deconstructed. Many of the jackets and wraps are reversible, with
a fuzzy wool side turning over to a shimmery silk layer that's
become as textured as snakeskin from the fusion process.
The most elaborately stitched pieces aren't cheap, but before
we get to prices, de Haas attempts to quantify the time she puts
into each design. "To make one piece of yardage takes two hours
of physical labour, not including the dyeing and the drying," the
designer explains. "From that one piece of yardage I could make
three hats, or it would take a couple of pieces of yardage to
make a jacket. So for jackets, it takes six to eight hours just
to make the fabric. Now I'm doing more and more embroidery and
appliqués, so it takes even more time-a couple days. I also do a
lot of seaming on them because I like them to be tailored."
Not every item is out of reach; pins start at $25, while hats
start at about $90. Wraps will cost you $198, more if there's
detailed embroidery, and jackets can run $600 to $800.
People seem to appreciate the work behind de Haas's sculptural
creations: these days, she says she can barely keep up with
demand. She should have more luck in her Granville Island space,
where she'll have an assistant and a new machine that will help
with the laborious rolling-out process. There's even enough
interest in the art form that she intends to hold felt-making
workshops.
"In the last couple years I've seen a lot more of it [felting]
worldwide; there's definitely been a resurgence," she says. "It's
just such a unique fibre, and a lot of people are being drawn to
something more rootsy and one-of-a-kind-something that expresses
individuality." In today's rushed world, it appears de Haas isn't
the only one attracted to doing things the long way.