Now that everyone's settling into the autumnal
back-to-business mode with work, school, and extracurricular
schedules ratcheting up, it's time to roll out another list of my
favourite Chinese eateries. Offering good value, and casual in
style, these restaurants are perfect for an impromptu
don't-feel-like-cooking midweek supper or a more elaborate
let's-talk-about-our-week Sunday roundtable with family and
pals.
Szechuan Garden Restaurant (1133 West
Broadway, 604-737-2188) Szechuan Garden, centrally located on
West Broadway, is a friendly spot for eating in, or if you really
can't tear yourself away from The Apprentice: Martha Stewart or
that new episode of West Wing, delivery (within five kilo?metres)
and takeout are options. For those who share Emeril's passion for
things porcine, the sliced pork with garlic sauce-thinly sliced
and poached pork belly generously dressed with sautéed garlic and
chili oil-rules. On a healthier note, the spicy green beans are
jade-green, crunchy-plump, sweet, and mildly spiced with a
sprinkling of hot pickles and ground pork. Other standouts
include a succulent, golden, crisp-skinned salted duck; sliced
fish with wine sauce cooked in lightly sweet rice-wine lees and
garnished with celery and cloud ear mushrooms; and, if you order
ahead, a fabulous Beggar's Chicken stuffed with dried lily buds
and mushrooms, wrapped in lotus leaves and baked in a flour crust
to seal in the moisture and flavours.
Green Village (2461 Nanaimo Street,
604-258-9018) Green Village, farther east along Broadway and the
Chinese culinary map, is a Shanghai-style dining destination
frequented by well-heeled foodies unafraid to risk wedging their
precious Beemers and Porsche SUVs into the cramped parking lot
out front just for a taste of the opulent eight-jewelled roast
duck stuffed with glutinous rice, ginkgo nuts, chestnuts,
mushrooms, and cured meats. When available, whole live ling cods
are sold by the pound and prepared different ways: the head and
bones go into a clay-pot soup loaded with vegetables and tofu;
the fillets, according to your preference, can be fried in garlic
and chilies, braised in wine, or simply pan-fried with ginger and
scallions. For something to snack on while you wait, ask about
the daily changing collection of small-plate cold appetizers,
ranging from boiled peanuts to house-made pickles and the
restaurant's unique upside-down sesame pan bread stuffed with
dried pork.
Ho Yuen Kee (6236 Fraser Street at East 47th
Avenue, 604-324-8855) For exceptional Cantonese-style seafood,
travel south along Fraser to Ho Yuen Kee, where a signature dish
of lobster steamed over lotus-wrapped corn and tobiko-studded
(flying-fish-roe-studded) glutinous rice has attracted such a
following that it's near impossible to get a seat there on any
given night after 7. Equally addictive are the Dungeness
crab-crusted with corn starch, fried, then tossed with chili
paste and a mountain of crisped garlic chips-and a sizzling clay
pot of black cod (sablefish) and eggplant in a savoury satay
sauce. But you don't need to order big-ticket items to get a
taste of the deft touch of the kitchen here. For $8.80, the
shrimp with scrambled egg on steamed rice is a bargain full-meal
deal loaded with large shrimp in a velvety, thickened
egg-drop-soup-like sauce. And $10 will net you either half a
boneless, cold, shredded, salty chicken that's moist and richly
flavoured with a galangal-brine dressing, or one of the best
plates of sweet-and-sour pork around town.
McKim Wonton Mein Saga (1180-8788 McKim Way,
Richmond, 604-270-6632) The curiously named McKim Wonton Mein
Saga is worth a jaunt to Richmond, especially if you are
interested in a definitive bowl of Cantonese-style won ton noodle
soup. The word saga makes reference to sai ga (which means an
ancient and prominent family in Cantonese), an emphatic
declaration that this is a branch of the Wellington Street
original, which is widely regarded as the best won ton noodle
house in Hong Kong. True to its pedigree, the won tons here are
dainty, delicately wrapped morsels packed with shrimp, and the
house-made noodles are thin but fabulously chewy in texture.
Other dishes, listed on a small Chinese-only menu, include tasty
crabmeat with sautéed pea tops, stir-fried shrimp with walnut and
green beans, and an oxtail-and-daikon stew served in a clay
pot.
Golden Ocean (second floor, 2046 West 41st
Avenue, 604-263-8606) Last but not least, a dim sum alternative
to add to your repertoire: Golden Ocean. A Kerrisdale clientele
has kept this second-floor restaurant bustling for years, and the
brisk turnover is what keeps the food in the pushcarts fresh and
the kitchen creative. Vietnamese-style prawn mousse wrapped
around a stick of sugar cane Popsicle-style, bitter melon stuffed
with dace purée, seafood rolls wrapped in Napa cabbage,
mushroom-stuffed rice rolls, and fried golf-ball-sized
matcha-tinted glutinous rice dumplings filled with sesame paste
are some examples of new takes on classics that are offered
alongside very good har gau and siu mai. Be sure to go early on
weekends to avoid long lineups.