There isn't much arguing with destiny when it comes to you in
a dream wrapped with a bow of religious reference. At 14, Lacy
Barry had the word ëphoe appear to her in her sleep. "I didn't
actually know what it meant, and through research the meaning [of
it] unravelled itself to me," she explains over the phone from
her studio in Calgary. That was eight years ago, before the
Internet was so pervasive, when finding the meaning of a Hebrew
word you've never heard was a daunting challenge for an early
teen.
Barry's research eventually lead her to a dictionary meaning
("a vestment that Jewish priests wore before going into the
temple and before God"), but it also brought her beyond that to
what can only be described as her "calling". Repeatedly stumbling
across the word's connection to clothing, Barry began to wonder
what bearing it might have on her life. "I never really knew how
to make clothes before the dream, and finding out what it meant I
thought 'I love clothes, and I've been really good at predicting
trends.'?" With a mother as a dressmaker to draw resources from,
Barry took up sewing and created her own label, Ephoe (pronounced
"e-fo"). This was all by age 16.
Six years later, Ephoe just showed its spring/summer 2006
collection, its second full one, at late September's B.C. Fashion
Week. The religious connotations came to a full stop. These days,
Ephoe is a line focused on the feminine that uses modern fabrics
such as nylon, Lycra/spandex, and treated cottons, all with a
view to being a good fit for every body type. The influences of
Audrey Hepburn are clear, but touches like oversize gold buttons
or a slightly exaggerated ruffle collar on an otherwise
clean-line coat are what signal a Lacy Barry creation. "Since I
was young, I've adored her," Barry says of her silver-screen
muse. "But here, it's with a bit of a twist. I want to create
something different. Audrey comes up, and all the Givenchy-and he
did an impeccable job fitting her. I'd like to keep the ladylike
image without that sexy formfitting stuff so that girls feel
comfortable with what they are wearing."
Barry's palette for spring is heavy on white with splashes of
lime, forest green, and a rich I'm-not-afraid-to-be orange. She's
carried her blossom shirt over from past seasons and made it her
first signature piece: a boat-neck sleeveless shirt with a
blossom in stretch polyester cascading over one shoulder. The
blossom is of lightweight cotton and the leaves are nylon. "I
used the leftover cotton from the dresses and nylon from the
jackets. It's very light material so as not to drag that side of
the shirt down." Barry pairs the shirt with full-leg capris
accented with her oversize-gold-button detail.
Barry is particularly pleased with her version of the
Christian Dior via Oscar de la Renta knee-length poof-skirt dress
with fitted, sleeveless, boat-neck bodice. She's added a peak of
tulle on hers (gold taffeta with ivory tulle or bronze with dark
chocolate) and a cummerbund accessory.
Barry's line is definitely being seen. Holt Renfrew has been
watching, she says, and her clothes attract so much attention
that the Fashion Watch crew had already noticed her work before
they covered Barry's show in Vancouver: they'd seen it on one of
Barry's fans who happened to be working at Paris Fashion
Week.
Barry's driving goal for Ephoe over the next five years is to
create collections and pieces that live beyond the season. "I see
it being at a place where it's eclectic and original and still
very affordable," she says, "mid- to high-end in cost, and in
boutiques that are art-devoted." (Ephoe ranges from $25 for
accessories to $800 for gowns.)
For Barry, the name that found her helps keep the collections
distinct. "I'm not thinking of the personal fame; I'm thinking of
the clothes and sharing that with other people and as a designer
and artist it is so great to see people be excited over the work.
I want that to project in my company. When I see a dress, I want
people to dream about it."
Now that it's the age of the Internet, the dress of your
dreams won't take two years to track down. Visit www.ephoe.com/
for more information or contact lacybarry@ephoe.com.