With their crinolines and corsets, it's hard to imagine how
women of the past moved comfortably through their own cities, let
alone travelled the world. But they did-sometimes alone-and many
left detailed written records. From Lady Wortley Montagu, the
first western woman known to have visited a Turkish bath, in
1717, to Isabella Bird, who made it as far as Kurdistan and Japan
in the 1800s, to Freya Stark, who wandered the Middle East into
the 1930s, a surprising number refused to let restrictive ideas
about a female's role prevent them from circling the globe.
Their startling adventures have now been woven into a new
exhibit at the Vancouver Museum, called No Place for a Lady,
opening today (November 10). Drawing on two illustrated and
meticulously researched books by local author Barbara Hodgson,
2002's No Place for a Lady and the just-published Dreaming of
East, the yearlong display mixes those tales with the museum's
artifacts. The show explores what it was like to travel during
the 18th, 19th, and early 20th centuries, and what motivated the
women to do it.
"It's rediscovering the spirit of travel. It shows the
difficulties, and how they were surmounted. And I also think it
brings in a sense of, 'Look, you've got it so easy today,'?"
explained Hodgson, leading the way through the still-unfinished
project, which she put together with the mus?eum's history
curator, Joan Seidl. "When these women, and men at the same time,
set out, they weren't thinking about sitting on a beach. They
were going for half a year, a year, and you can tell when you
read their books that there's so much they looked into and
observed."
Because society frowned on overly independent women, they
chose to find reasons like pursuing health, religion, or study
for undertaking their journeys. One of the exhibit's 11 sections
is devoted to intellectual pursuits, and is complemented by an
English walking costume from the 1860s. Backed by a multicoloured
collage of antique maps, the display has a curio cabinet full of
fossils gathered in North America and Egypt in 1836 and 1837, as
well as shells, butterflies, and a butterfly net, and a preserved
iguana, crocodile, and tortoise-in short, "all kinds of things
that a woman with an active mind would either be sketching and
making notes about and, maybe, collecting," said Hodgson.
"I don't think the concept of just being a tourist had quite
hit universally at that time," added Hodgson, an avid
archaeologist, traveller, photographer, and archivist who last
curated a show at the museum based on her two books about opium.
Speaking about two women adventurers featured in the current
exhibit, she said: "Mary Kingsley went to Africa to look for
'fish and fetish', and Gertrude Bell spent a lot of time
surveying Byzantine churches and archaeology in the Middle East
and founded the Baghdad museum." Other sections focus on painting
and photography, two other activities seized on by women that
also helped leave a physical record of their trails.
Still, perhaps the most fascinating aspect of the exhibit is
simply getting a sense of the realities of travel in an age
before airliners and Gore-Tex. From examples of what to pack in
your steamer trunk to the intricacies of early camping equipment
(Hodgson sewed up a Lavinge bag, a combination sleeping
bag/mosquito net, from a pattern she found in an 1850 guidebook),
the two artifact-heavy rooms bring a slower-paced era to life. In
remote mountains and deserts, the women trekked by horse or
camel, or rented sailboats to go up the Nile, stopping at every
temple. Sometimes they kept maids or hired a personal dragoman-as
photos and engravings in the exhibit show, an often-handsome
Middle Eastern guide/interpreter, dashing in knee-high boots, a
striped cummerbund, and mustaches-who would accompany them for
months at a time.
Besides shopping at bazaars and being hauled up Egyptian
pyramids by local guides (after leaving their crinolines in
Cairo, of course), the one important thing women could do-and
that men couldn't-was visit harems. A particularly elaborate
mock-up of a room illustrates these sensual realms that
disappeared with the fall of the Ottoman Empire, complete with
carpets, cushions, hookahs (smoking pipes), brass trays, tea
sets. It also incorporates the show's star artifact: an Egyptian
wooden lattice screen from coastal Danietta, dating to at least
the 1700s and maybe earlier, designed to let the harem's women
see outside while not being visible themselves.
Hodgson, who has toured the world extensively, acknowledged
that she shares the investigative spirit of these early
travellers. She recalled that while researching her fictional
2004 book The Lives of Shadows, she found herself following an
old map through the ancient quarter of Damascus, noting that
while all the names had changed, the street pattern was virtually
identical. (At the French archives, she later learned the map
dated to the 1200s.) "So I was going along with this map, a
camera around my neck, a shoulder bag with things-paper and
stuff-writing down the new names of the streets, and I was like,
'I'm turning into one of my ladies! This is ridiculous! I must
look just totally silly with all this stuff!'"