It's right after graduation and you've still got that glow
from peaking on your final project. Your fashion presentation was
a success, you've made great friends and allies, and even found a
future business partner. Then you are invited to participate in
the city's fashion week as a guest in the Up and Comers section
of the event. What could come next? That's when the call arrives.
It's the Bay and they want to see your line. You've got a nibble
from what could be one of the biggest accounts in the country,
and they called you.
The ball stops rolling and it's time for reality to take its
toll. Matthew Burditt and Kelly Lee are both graduates from the
Blanche Macdonald Centre. They completed school this time last
year and went on to showcase a joint collection called Manganese
(www.manganese.ca/ launches at the end of July, or contact
manganesedesigns@shaw .ca) at Vancouver Fashion Week in October.
At the time, the pace of success was intense. With only two weeks
to prepare their collection for VFW, Lee explains the haphazard
origins of the line's name: "Any word would do. It just had to
look good on paper, so we looked at the periodic table and it
popped out. It looked good when you handwrote it in script."
But that phone call potentially launching their line wasn't as
easy to address as a name. Lee is matter-of-fact when she
explains, "They didn't know we didn't have investors or a
manufacturer. The only thing we had in place was our education.
So we started looking into fabric sourcing, sample production,
manufacturing, and just everything we needed to show a line to
the Bay, and we realized it wasn't realistic without lots of
money in place and it was way too risky to do as a first jump
into selling." When capital is in scarce supply, look behind door
number two.
Burditt takes the marketing machine to heart and has fused
inspiration with selling and branding: "I'm a bit of a celebrity
hound, and I've been contacting a lot of different places to get
into that because I can appreciate having that kind of
endorsement or that on your résumé or in your portfolio. Right
now we are working on designs for Veda Hille, a local
folksinger." Step one of how to make your way without
capital.
Step two: find a way for the medium to be the message. "Right
now we are still in the design process of the [newest]
collection…a very conceptual line. It's difficult to find
inspiration or narrow down inspiration when there is so much
visual stimulation-music, other designers-so we are taking the
persona of strong female performers, musicians, artists, and
using that for the basis of one garment in the collection." Muses
include Regina Spektor, PJ Harvey, and CocoRosie. Their
commonality is music, but each direction is so individual that
ultimately the collection's one unifying premise is to create a
series of distinct pieces. It's a line for the theatrical woman
who is not afraid to wear a non-trend item.
That philosophy fits the design duo as they both explain that
they didn't choose fashion design in order to make clothes that
are already on the market. A word to the fashion streetwise from
Burditt: "Never focus on what is in the stores now because by the
time it reaches certain stores, it's done, it was done months
ago."
Some of the pieces are one-of-a-kind: a brocade tailcoat with
a suede collar that stands away from the face; the brocade is
rust and the satin/silk lining is fuchsia to create a touch of
dissonance. Or there are the custom-made fabrics, manipulated to
fit the spirit of one of the chosen muses.
The plan now is to start small and grow. The pair has the
potential and the talent and-more than some-they have faith in
each other. "You have such drive, and the potential is there, and
we know we are good, and we have the support of each other, and I
have all the belief I could have in Kelly's abilities, and others
are interested. We've got press and stores that want to carry our
line-we just need that little push…" Lee finishes Burditt's
thought: "That is that missing piece of the puzzle. It's crappy
thinking that your career doesn't depend on your talent but on
your wallet." Any takers?