It's the same problem every year: somewhere to go, nothing to wear. Holiday parties rear their ugly heads as early as six weeks before Christmas, giving you plenty of events to fret over. But those sick to death of sequins and sparkle have a new option this season: everything old-centuries old-is cutting-edge again, and designers are drawing on historical grace and elegance for fresh inspiration. Think Merchant Ivory on the cocktail circuit.

This year, holiday collections are rife with Victorian and Edwardian accents on a cinematic scale; designers are also throwing in a bit of Japanese styling for a contemporary fusion that defies convention. And, as always, Vancouver's own talented designers are reflecting what's all the rage on the runway: whether it's the shipwrecked Victoriana at Obakki or the kimono-inspired blocks in Jason Matlo's lines, every bit of what strides the catwalks is being made at a boutique in our own back yard.

For all who insist on the staple little black number, Mara Gottler (www.maragottler.com/) has created a silhouette this year to make originator Coco Chanel herself proud. The dress of duchesse-silk satin features a collarbone-revealing boat neck with a bit of a tulip skirt, the kind that every woman can wear because of the defined waist and gentle flare at the knees. The coup de grâce on this piece is the exit you'll make with the plunging-to-the-waist V at the back. Pair it with her kimono-influenced cashmere coat and a pair of coloured tights. Gottler's line is premiering at the charity fundraiser Tabula Rasa on Tuesday (November 29) at Ginger 62. In this, the costume designer's first ready-to-wear collection, corset belts add a historical flourish; look also for exposed hardware and visible seams.

Over at Chulo Pony, Chris Kopeck gives insight into the popularity of this season's blasts from the past: "Fashion was just so basic and minimal for so long that people became tired of wearing that and wanted to be more feminine, and Victorian is the height of femininity: high collars and cuffs and nipped-in waists and ruffles and lace." Chulo's offerings include a black or red velveteenlike corduroy dress with a high ruffle collar, bustle back, and ruffle along the hem. On the Japanese-styling end, try a wool mohair V-neck over a flared wrap dress with a satin obi and pearl buttons, topped with a scalloped-lace tie around the neck. (The pieces are available at Zebra Club [3101 Granville Street], Mooncruise Gallery [235 Cambie Street], Spank [2003 West 4th Avenue], Pleasant Girl [2541 Main Street], Miss Coquette [4372 West 10th Avenue], and on-line [www.chulopony.com/].)

Joanna Kulpa didn't design her seasonal dresses with an international trend in mind, but she admits that her work reflects one strong theme: "I can definitely see the Japanese influence in some of my designs…subconsciously, some of the styles have similar waist detail, a thick band or sash that wraps around the waist." In one such look, a thick swath of flecked black satin ties at the waist over her asymmetrical Elm skirt in the same material. Her most valuable piece of advice when it comes to dressing for the season? "Easy-casual, no fuss, and a little bit of shine." (Available at Lark 8th Ave. [152 East 8th Avenue], Liquid Clothing [2050 West 4th Avenue], You and Whose Army [929 Denman Street], www.kulpa.ca/, or at the studio [604-689-5624].)

Jason Matlo agrees with Kulpa's advice, explaining that one mistake is to go way out; you'll end up not looking like yourself. "Women tend to look overly made-up for holiday and step so far out of their look that it looks heavily done," he says. "I think the glamour in it is the simplicity." Matlo's line showcases accents of Japanese styling as well, with the highlight being a gold sheath dress with a plunging V and wide obi belt. (His work is available via www.jasonmatlo.com/)

For extra glamour, Obakki (205-332 Water Street; www.obakki.com/) has practically gone couture with a few of its pieces: designer Genevieve Graham explains the details of the seven hours of hand draping and preparation behind each of her silk organza skirts-which, by the way, take 11 metres of the luxe fabric per skirt. One floor-length version in luminous off-white or rich-brown hand-woven silk pulls up into cascading folds along the side; another organza piece looks like a ballroom skirt whose hem has been chopped up unevenly in a shipwreck; and a three-tier creation has been meticulously folded into uncountable tiny pleats, with the hems left raw-cut. The tops are equally historical: there's a blouse with full sleeves wrapped up the arms with delicate ties or a lace-up bustier in natural-hued silk.

Sound a bit dramatic? Before you seek out that party dress, hit the movie theatres: with Memoirs of a Geisha and Pride and Prejudice sure to be the cinematic hits of the holiday season, even Hollywood is getting in on the act.