Passersby probably thought it was the opening of the latest
art installation: a hip, black-clad crowd was mingling by a deer
head mounted over a fireplace, surrounded by raw leather skins
hung over the stark-white walls. Hand-felted jackets were
displayed on stands like freestanding sculptures.
In fact, the event was the opening party for the new Hunt and
Gather boutique at 225 Carrall Street. It was also an appropriate
introduction to an artful, conceptual line that defies trends and
revels in the element of surprise.
Ask most fashion designers who their biggest influences are
and they'll list off big names like Christian Lacroix and
Alexander McQueen. But question Natalie Purschwitz about the
inspirations for Hunt and Gather, and you'll get some answers as
pleasingly unexpected as her dressy-yet-rustic apparel.
"A big influence for my store and my style is a guy I call
Rolf the Radium Woodcarver," Purschwitz told the
Straight after the opening. The designer, who hails from
Radium Hot Springs, went on to explain: "He's this crazy
woodcarver who makes bears, cowboys, and everything out of logs.
He's got booby traps all over his property.…I always thought that
was really great, that he could make whatever he wanted and that
was his store. And that's what I wanted to do."
Purschwitz, who's studied everything from archaeology at the
University of Calgary to visual arts at Emily Carr Institute and
New York's the Cooper Union, has hunted and gathered many more
diverse sources for her artful, striking looks-pieces that range
from hand-felted capes to scalloped wool "apron-belts" to
"holster bags" that sling around the shoulder and sit low on the
side.
For one, she's travelled all over the world and spent time
living in Japan; her own mother is Japanese, an archaeology
graduate who was working in Egypt when she met Purschwitz's
German father. The influence of Japanese culture is evident in
everything from the asymmetrical lines and diagonal jacket
closures to Purschwitz's celebration of natural fibres and their
random imperfections.
Purschwitz has also worked as a costume designer for dancers,
from large troupes like Calgary's Decidedly Jazz to Vancouver's
Alvin Erasga Tolentino, and her clothes have a drama and movement
to them that must have seeped in from the stage shows.
The designer calls her Hunt and Gather line "fancy but a
little bit rough"-equal parts Clan of the Cave Bear,
Soho avant-garde, Zen minimalism, and even 18th-century elegance.
She has half-jokingly dubbed her latest collection the
"paleo-Queen Anne" look. Fittingly, ethereal-looking art-popster
Jane Siberry is one of her most loyal customers.
Pieces range from long, asymmetrical herringbone skirts to
cozy, irregular hand-felted scarves and shrugs. Purschwitz
approaches her fashion design like an artist, but there is a
fiercely practical side to her as well. Take the apron-belt, a
wide, low-slung piece of lined, scalloped wool that looks cool
over jeans or a skirt: it's designed with pockets for toting
items around. "I like to have some kind of tool belt when I'm
working-something to carry, like, my scissors," she says of her
inspiration for the signature look. Her holster bag, like her
flat wool backpacks and small waist pouches, serves a purpose as
well: "I really like the hands-free approach to bags," Purschwitz
explains.
Colours this season are subtle and muted, from natural earth
tones through to blue-greys and khaki. (Prices range from $12 for
hand-knitted cuffs to about $100 for skirts and tops and $200 for
holster purses; prices for one-of-a-kind hand-felted jackets
start around $300.)
Purschwitz recently branched out to start making men's pieces,
like vests and sweaters. "Because I'm working in here, I can
produce new things every day," she says. "I would like to be able
to make things that are just strange that people will like."
The point of Hunt and Gather is that you can always expect the
unexpected. Take Purschwitz's current project: sewing up little
log-shaped pillows made of brown ultrasuede or jersey knit. Rolf
the Radium Woodcarver would be proud.