With the eclecticism of this season's trends, it would be
difficult to update your wardrobe without committing to at least
one of the current fashion themes. The question, though, is this:
is it better to go boho, Russian, Edwardian, late-'60s graphic,
or even a little bit country? Thrown into the mix is the deep
diversity of accessories available. An entire wardrobe of
jewellery is essential for each of these looks. Fret not, fellow
fashionistas: the big advantage to all this choice is the
crossover. As easy as matching that Edwardian blouse with a boho
tweed vest, a pair of classic boho hoops accessorized with a
teardrop of onyx will easily fit with a Russian-style waistcoat.
And with the ever-increasing expertise and attention applied to
the making of fashion jewellery, it's now possible to buy
quantity and quality.
Louisa LaBarbera features an extensive range of looks in her
collection year round: from tassels to cameos to pearls on one
end to hand-hammered rings to jet to pop-art plastics on the
other ($65 to $1,000). Her approach to making the collections is
an easy one to apply to selecting pieces for the new season: "I
think people are just doing what makes them happy, designwise;
for me, the inspiration is the materials. I see the necklaces
being created while I'm working with them. If I find a really
funky vintage pink plastic bead then I'll just make what I think
goes with it." With the plethora of choice available, it's easy
to go from jet beading to wooden bangles on the wrist to layered
and long necklaces.
LaBarbera had her start at Beadworks in Toronto, sister to the
Beadworks here on Granville Island, right out of high school.
While she was at university, her jewellery sales became more
profitable and the dreamcatcher business run out of her dorm room
took precedence over environmental studies and geography.
Between two university attempts, LaBarbera made her way to
Vancouver in 1996 where she met Madalena Corsi, then owner of
Sharp and Friends and now owner of Jeweliette (692 Seymour
Street), where much of LaBarbera's line is stocked. "Back then my
materials were silk and glass beads and surgical steel, and over
time I worked with Mad to improve the design and the materials.
She's been a real mentor for me."
During our sunny sitdown over tea, LaBarbera takes some time
to highlight some of the signature pieces for this fall/winter.
She motions to the necklace currently around her neck. "The one
that I'm wearing are my Majorca pearls [$195], the highest
quality of synthetic pearls. They are man-made but extremely
highly praised, even in the fine-jewellery world."
Definitely blurring the lines between fine and fashion
jewellery is LaBarbera's loop collection, hand-hammered and made
of 14-karat gold-fill wire (which, unlike gold plate, doesn't
tarnish) and semiprecious stones such as black onyx, jade,
amethyst, citrine, and garnet. "I'm doing a lot of black and gold
for fall because black is the new black.
"And babies are the new Chihuahua," she jokes.
One of her opera-length necklaces (70 to 85 centimetres)
features cascades of varying-sized gold-fill wire loops, all
hand-hammered ($375). Another piece, perhaps partially inspired
from her studies in ancient history, is a 40-centimetre necklace,
almost a choker, with three strands of salmon branch coral and a
locket pendant cameo ($225). Her Victorian beaded black onyx and
black crystal choker has a difficult-to-find black cameo pendant
as its anchor feature ($255).
Her current collection of earrings showcases large hoops
varying in size from one to five centimetres in diameter ($85 to
$225). Each hoop features a combination of teardrops in black
freshwater pearls, faceted black onyx, chalcedony, wood beads,
gold chain, and turquoise.
Having moved back to Toronto several years ago, LaBarbera does
her best to make both cities her home. In the process, she's
developed a notable client roster from the jazz world: Renee
Rosnes, Shannon Gunn, Kate Hammett-Vaughan, and Amalia Townsend
of Sekoya, as well as Sophie Milman. With her jewellery also
available at Accessity on Toronto's tony Cumberland Street, she
says that her next step is to move more toward 14-karat gold and
fine jewellery. Which means another choice for us.