Way back three weeks ago, the marriage of deli foods and wine fell under the scrutiny of this column. I'm happy to report the other dozen pages of research have now been deciphered from splodged serviettes and mayo'd matchbooks, and the results are encouraging: plenty of Danish deli foods go remarkably well with wines from Chile, Australia, and the Okanagan. Are we surprised?

Bread and cheese, pork and pickles, red and white-these are the principal components for this one. The foodstuffs are from another of the Lower Mainland's tucked-away treat spots: Jolly Meats and Fine Foods (111 Charles Street, North Vancouver). Take a right off the Ironworkers' Memorial Second Narrows Crossing, the Deep Cove exit, right again at the light, that's Riverside. Keep on going right till you see a sign or two and there it is.

This is the place for smoked leg of lamb, spiced níƒ ¶kkelost, píƒ ¢tés and asier, red cabbage, herring of all kinds and saucings, rullepíƒ ¸lse and lumpfish roe, bread, and condiments. Your neighbourhood LDB is the place for Long Flat, Sumac Ridge, St. Hubertus, and Secreto. This is how it all comes together.

But first a general observation about sandwich-building. Go big or go home. No one did it better-Dagwood obviated-than crime novelist Lawrence Sanders's excellent creation, Capt. Edward X. Delaney, in the Deadly Sins series. So Pantagruelian were Delaney's sandwiches, he offered instructions in their eating: both hands on the sandwich, standing over the sink, to catch the fallout.

But really first: a shot of aquavit, iced to the nines so it's smoking in the glass and makes your forehead hurt. Straight back, maybe another, merely to alert the palate there's stuff coming.

Long-time favourite wines in B.C. are the Long Flat blends from Australia's Tyrrell; not least for their excellent value: the White 2004 (Sémillon/Sauvignon Blanc) and the Red 2002 (Cabernet/Shiraz/Malbec) cost $11.99 each. (Both are currently unavailable through the LDB; check your local private, or contact the winery at www.sumacridge.com/.)

The white is fresh, green, light, citric, and rhubarby-very tart. It wants food and fast: onion-based dishes, fresh or cooked, even one of those pissaladiíƒ ¨re onion tarts.

The red is even tastier with what's to come: big fruit flavours, also very fresh but full, a pleasant touch of tannins, and then that good Australian smack of Shiraz, sliding right down. Fine for chicken livers with onion, sage, and hot sauce. And, of course, this combo from the deli counter: ultra-thin sliced smoked lamb leg, same thickness sliced níƒ ¶kkelost spiced cheese, some dried fried onions crumbled over everything, dab of rémoulade (comes in a handy squeeze tube, save you making your own) with some of Terra Breads' levain bread, lightly toasted.

Anything coming off the Black Sage bench in the Okanagan gets my vote: certainly the Sumac Ridge varietals have provided uncountable pleasure over the years. These do too: Black Sage Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2004 and Cabernet Franc 2003 ($16.99 each) are hale and hearty, the Sauvignon clocking in at a whopping 15 percent alcohol but still all gooseberry fresh, with a surprisingly soft finish and some nice Tahiti pineapple. It's rich and lovely, as fine as any Okanagan Sauvignon of my acquaintance lately. Sublime wine.

The Cabernet Franc is fuller than many Okanagan versions of this frequently blended varietal, more Burgundian in style than others, lots of ripe fruit, a big-food wine; it likes the bite of the blue cheese best. Danish píƒ ¢té, then-it's rich and not so mousselike as some of its French counterparts; mustard and lots of it, sweet or hot is definitely called for. Also, some mycella cheese, the Danish approach to Gorgonzola, mild and aromatic and buttery. If they're out, the creamy version of good old Danish blue is just fine. Capers on the side, some bite-size pieces of curried or wine-cured herring, that real Danish rye bread with sweet butter on it.

Pink for pickles, here it comes. St. Huber?tus's Rosé Gamay Noir 2004 ($12.99 but sold out in this vintage; keep an eye out for the new one) has the stuff to keep the vinegar in check: great colour, fabulous fruit, strawberry aromas ("cranberries and cream", say the brothers Gebert about their creation); a good salad wine, too, and one of the Okanagan Pink Triumvirate, which we'll talk about again in May. If you'd like more depth, more bite, more big flavours, do the same winery's Maréchal Foch 2004 ($18.99): dark and deep and dry-perfect in and with a bourguignon-one of the three top Fochs in the valley.

Now do a veggie version of the deli treats: Terra's potato-and-chive bread; clove-and-apple-pickled red cabbage, fresh tomato slices, Esrom cheese, sweet mustard, and some asier, those white slices of sweet and sour pickles that the Germans call Senfgurken and that taste like nothing else on Earth. Lots to be found at Jolly's in jars big or little.

Last round comes from Chile. The Viu Manent label's Secreto line. Of the various varietals here in town, these two top the taste for me: Syrah 2004 and Viognier of the same vintage ($16.99 each). Appealing every which way, fruit-forward and fresh-a dead-cute label that strikes the eye, rich full flavours (the Viognier is wonderfully floral without being overblown about it, quite a lovely wine; the Syrah round and sort of upholstered, in the Aussie style). Keep the red around for when it's barbecue time once more; the white, too-for the halibut and the prawns.

Must do some rolled meat with these wines: the one called rullepíƒ ¸lse, stuffed with parsley or not gets the call here, or some of Jolly's house-roasted pork stuffed with prunes, sliced nice and thin. On top of that a wedgelet of the rich aged Samso cheese with its sweet-sour pungency; a little slice of anchovy or anchovy paste on top of that and-wait for it-a dollop of Devon cream. Stack of Andy's Bakery's dark rye bread on the side.

And then, more aquavit if you're of a mind. Better still a shot of Gammeldansk-the unique Danish digestif that's just a little on the sweet and spicy side-will do the trick till it's time to lie down.

White wines of merit(age) when next we meet; a round up of (mostly) Argentine Malbecs, and then the BOYs: Best of the Year imports, domestics, and brews.