Style Watch
Running from runway to runway
With both B.C. Fashion Week in full swing and the biggest runway show of the season on the roster, the city has been crammed with catwalk action. Here are a few of the highlights of the past week.
FIT AND REFINED The sensuous and skilled tailoring that hallmarked Mara Gottler's fall '06 collection on April 5 launched B.C. Fashion Week's dynamic, often standing-room-only shows at the Scotiabank Dance Centre. Drawing on the craftsmanlike fit of equestrian and fencing clothing, Gottler sent out a line whose elegance and restraint called to mind 1940s-late-show ladies. Skirts were sometimes bubble-shaped or had godets inserted for swirliness. Jackets and tops were often widely belted. Standouts included a white shirt, sharply pin-tucked from under the bust to the hem, a floppy-collared jacket in fine black-and-white check, and the glowing crimson evening gowns with trailing trains that concluded the show.
TO HAVE AND TO HOLTS The same night, over at the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, was the aptly named Show, Holt Renfrew's annual Fashion Gala to benefit the Arts Umbrella-and the largest catwalk presentation the company mounts in the country. This year's stellar lineup included the usual suspects: Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Lanvin, Marni, Etro, Michael Kors, Prada, Diane Von Furstenberg, Dolce & Gabbana, Jil Sander, Alexander McQueen, and Missoni, plus some spectacular international samples brought in especially for the event from the likes of Christian Dior and Jean Paul Gaultier. Celebrated menswear designer John Varvatos made a special guest appearance.
GIRLS BLUSH Later on, it was firmly a girl's collection back at the Dance Centre as Shelley Klassen of Blushing Designs closed the first full day of B.C. Fashion Week. Patterned fabrics ran the gamut from paisley, devoré velvets, and brocade to stripes, lace, and even some sequin. The binding thread was the focus on dresses with a body- hugging silhouette; the knee-length turquoise-and-silver-paisley-print coat paired with red boots was a solid interlude. On its heels marched out a chartreuse, high-waisted pencil skirt with proportions to elongate any leg. The final fave was the tuxedo-inspired strapless tube dress of burnt-velvet stripes.
CUEVAS CLASSICS Enough to jolt a stylist from her runway stupor was the parade of windswept gowns JC Studio brought out to close its April 6 show. RozeMerie Cuevas's interpretation of the tuxedo-inspired wrap dresses and silk-satin, neck-tie blouses deserve a nod for their effortless sophistication. The gowns encapsulated everything from prairie-girl chic to red-carpet showstopper. Cuevas designed the dresses with the intention to sashay between any events, from art-gallery opening to black-tie fundraiser. Strapless sheath, plunging halter, or deep-V style, the voluminous cut can easily make any woman look delicate and romantic.
MAKING A SPLASH Anna Kosturova's medium may be crochet, but the message is a world away from the conservative restraint of grandma's doilies. Bikinis and one-piece swimsuits the same night featured cheeky girly-girl gingham prints, retro-Riviera-style side-cutaway one-pieces, and military-inspired camouflage. Kosturova made a foray into poolside cover-ups, showcasing a variety of silk pareos, wraps, minis, skirts, and cotton-canvas shorts. The focus was on multipurpose pieces, with dresses that double as skirts and skirts that convert into tops. Deciding which beach diva you want to incarnate will be the hard part.
DISCREET OPULENCE Starting April 7 off on a classy note, Rubina Anjum's Hiver Chaud ("hot winter") collection cleverly mined the Revelation designer's Indian heritage. Faux fur appeared as luxurious shawl collars on jackets and evening dresses and, sheared to velvety lushness, formed broad bands on the bodice and deep hem of a floor-length ivory gown. Black lace showed up as apronlike layers over pearl charmeuse. Raj touches of gold hand-embroidered flowers embellished a grey evening dress and a floor-length white cape. From the elegance of the princess and Empire cuts to the supple and sumptuous fabrics, this was the essence of modern-day elegance.
FLOATING GLAMOUR The palette at Jason Matlo's April 8 show stuck to grey, black, and magenta (with minimal touches of white), while every other facet of his fall/winter line is unadulterated glamour. In a standout show, Matlo trotted out a balance of pieces for the fashion-focused and suiting for ladies who lunch, power or otherwise. It was a decidedly literal take on the '30s silhouette and proportions, emphasizing a cinched waist and a touch of volume at the shoulder. The wrap dress was back with a slightly more exaggerated bishop sleeve and one version in nuanced jacquard-the ruffled cuff and weightless silk are almost enough to make you look as if you could float to your next appointment.
URBAN 'TUDE Denim cut into capris, modified bubble skirts, and basic jeans updated with vintage fading and pencil-leg fit anchored the DC Inc collection that kicked off April 9, the final day of B.C. Fashion Week. The company that made its name with performance-skateboarding shoes showed the same panache with streetwear. Hoodies, a three-quarter-length canvas jacket, slim-fit T-shirts with bleached and painted dots and swirls, all in a muted natural palette-this is exactly what Vancouver wears on its downtime. A big-buttoned pointelle-knit cardi and a line of sophisticated open-back tops showed the softer side of the street. The footwear, it goes without saying, was right on trend.
PLAY TIME Early warning that local Christina Culver blends tart and sweet came in the cat-fight-'n'-glamour movie-clip montage that prefaced her Christina Darling show. Robotically caricaturing the "Paper Dolls" that themed the Helen Lefeaux-trained Culver's collection, models paraded flirty clothes that tongue-in-cheekily referenced classic films and pop culture via ruched waists, fur stoles, and other girly details. From a baby-doll dress in tiger-print chiffon to the oversize corsage on a ladies-who-lunch jacket in faux leopard to the Stepford Wife in floaty-white chiffon, these were dolls with a streak of irony.
EAT YOUR HEART OUT, CLEAVER Chloë Angus closed the week with a classic collection of first-lady glamour: pieces that translate easily from day to night and an assortment of dresses-wrap, belted, and sheath-with a sexy restraint. The collection was deep and the palette timeless, with burnt orange and milky-brown tweeds, and a holiday flavour to wrap things up in red, black, and silver. Of note was the billowing silk-charmeuse gown in white with its oversize blue-paisley print and the 1950s-hourglass black sheath. June Cleaver never looked this sharp.


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