Let's face it, the name bread pudding conjures images of nasty English nursery food, right up there with tapioca and blancmange, the kind of milky, bland stodge reserved for Victorian invalids and children. In fact, it is a simple, ancient, and frugal formula that's infinitely adaptable and delicious not only for dessert but for dinner and breakfast, too. It's time for an image overhaul for bread pudding and a fresh look at its significant culinary potential.

The history of bread pudding is long and diverse. In England, Egypt, the Middle East, and India, sweet bread puddings have been made for many centuries. Using dried fruit, nuts, spices, rosewater, eggs, and cream to perform the alchemy, resourceful cooks transformed yesterday's humble loaf into sweet, comforting delight. Though newer on the culinary scene, savoury bread puddings are a logical extrapolation of this idea, giving cheese, vegetables, meat, and fish a chance to work their magic on stale bread.

Savoury bread puddings are simple, versatile, and convenient. Their ingredients--bread, eggs, milk, and tasty garnishes--are items you are likely to have on hand. They make excellent breakfast, brunch, lunch, or dinner dishes; main courses or sides; vegetarian or not. They also adapt to a huge range of flavours. Let your imagination, and your refrigerator, be your guide. Finally, not only can bread puddings be made one or two days in advance, they should be and taste better if they've had time to soak overnight.

To build a bread pudding, let's assume that you're starting with that partial loaf of slightly stale but fine-quality bread sitting on the counter. Try to choose accompaniments that will work with the character of your bread, whether it's a baguette or chewy multigrain. It may be with or without crusts and sliced, cubed, or crumbed, depending on the texture you're seeking. Slices give a layered result, suitable if you have large pieces or layers of the garnish. Cubes give a more random creation, with the garnish mixed throughout. Crumbs give an even texture and work well when the garnish (for instance, carrots) is puréed into the custard.

To make the custard, whisk together three large eggs, three-quarters cup milk or cream, three-quarters teaspoon salt, a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg, and freshly ground black pepper to taste. This is enough for about 225 grams of bread (four average slices), serving four as a side dish.

Now, here comes the creative part where you give the pudding its character. The flavour possibilities are nearly infinite, but here are a few of my favourites:

> Wild mushrooms (fresh or dried) are delicious submerged in custardy bread. Sauté two minced shallots and two cloves of garlic with a half-kilo or so sliced mushrooms and add one quarter-cup chopped fresh herbs and a touch of finely grated Parmesan cheese.

> Roast two cups peeled, cubed winter squash with two cloves garlic, two tablespoons fresh sage, salt and pepper to taste, and a drizzle of olive oil. Finish with one cup coarsely grated cave-aged Gruyère cheese, both in and atop the pudding. This works well with heartier breads.

> Fry up one-and-a-half cups chopped Spanish chorizo with one chopped onion and two cloves garlic; pair the sausage with Italian parsley and about 125 grams of soft fresh goat cheese.

So you've got bread, custard, and yummy things. Mix them together in a flat, greased baking dish. (An eight-inch square works well.) Cover and store in the fridge overnight or for up to two days. About 90 minutes before you plan to eat, preheat the oven to 350º F and place the pudding dish in a larger pan with sides. Pour boiling water into the larger tray until it reaches about halfway up the side of the pudding dish. Bake 45 to 60 minutes, until evenly puffed and coloured and set in the centre. Serve now or keep warm for up to 30 minutes.

Savoury bread puddings really save the day at holiday time, especially if you'll be hosting events at which omnivores and herbivores will both dine. For the big bird day, consider making bread pudding instead of stuffing and roast the turkey with just aromatic herbs and vegetables in the cavity. The pudding makes a very satisfying centre for the plate, and, with lots of side veggies, miso gravy, and cranberry sauce, strikes just the right festive tone. With minimal last-minute attention, puds are also great for breakfast and brunch.

If savoury bread puddings are not already in your repertoire, get them there before the madness of holiday entertaining strikes. Easy, hearty, and tasty, they're sure to please at any time of day. Now all they need is a new name...