Barely a month ago this space was awash in dubious liquid. That was the “stuff we used to drink” piece, and it sure created a challenge for the panel and its organizer. “One more like this and we’re not coming back” was the consensus; it seemed the only way to assuage everybody was to haul out the big guns. And here they are—much smacking of lips, purpling of teeth, grinning from ear to ear, and chasing after adjectives later—in ascending order of price.Garry Oaks Prism 2005 ($19.95) It’s been a while since we looked in on the portfolio of Salt Spring Island’s paramount winery. Based on this taste, it’s been entirely too long! A soft, aromatic blend of all island-grown white grapes—gewürztraminer, schonburger, and chardonnay—it’s absolutely gorgeous, easily the best wine from this operation we’ve tasted. All is in harmony, everything’s ripe and fresh. Plus, the telling thing happened: it was the first to empty. Worth a special journey.Laughing Stock Chardonnay 2005 ($24) Barrel-fermented, half of it went into new French oak, the other half into second-fill oak; left on the lees for six months, repeatedly stirred, it was then bottled under screw cap. The result: pure gold, start to finish. You can practically taste all the loving care that went into this elegant, refined, subtle wine; very soft and silky, and textbook use of oak. The fairly short finish in no way diminishes the entertainment the tongue gets here.Herder Twin Benches Chardonnay 2005 ($24.90) The ongoing problem with Herder wines is the lack of supply: only 250 cases of this were produced. Chances are good they’re long gone, but you might find a few bottles in a favourite restaurant with a knowledgeable wine buyer; if so, treat yourself to this big, bold, even unctuous, slightly sweet, no-nonsense Chardonnay with something herbaceous on the back palate. Having yet to find a Herder wine that isn’t good, we all simply trust in the fact something else will likely be along soon.Rodney Strong Charlotte’s Home Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma 2005 ($24.99) A very shiny nose from the start, but it gives way to very big fruit, some pepper (both green and black), some herbs (sage and marjoram), some Bosc pear, and a hint of spice; very aromatic but light-bodied, it resolves into a lengthy finish. This is a superb Sauvignon Blanc in every way and a learning-experience contrast for those raised on many of New Zealand’s overly grassy ones.Rodney Strong Chalk Hill Chardonnay 2004 ($27.75) A lovely little Sonoma-style Chardonnay with fresh and abundant fruit (someone found ripe honeydew here, and who would argue?), a medium finish, and a little touch of breakfast toast. Nice and easy going down; backups are called for if you’re doing a big brunch with frittatas and smoked salmon and avocado saladry.Camaraderie Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 ($33.70) It’s also been too long since we looked at this remarkable Port Angeles winery’s work. Left over from a Washington-state tasting in town, this was the only bottle I got; the best way to get more is to take the Coho from Victoria and call ahead for a tasting visit. Sublime Cabernet, soft and opulent, stunningly good after five years and bound to maintain its excellence for a good five or seven more. It’ll be a challenge finding this one in time for Christmas but surely worth it. Waterstone Carneros Pinot Noir 2003 ($34.70) Huge Pinot—heady, deep, and robust. Luckily there was more than one, since we simply had to have it with slow-barbecued prime ribs. If your fall has been laden with skimpy, barely adequate Pinot Noirs of late, take 35 out of the piggy bank and find out what all the fuss was/is about. When is Sideways: The Sequel coming, anyway?Golden Mile Cellars Black Arts Chardonnay 2004 ($35) Is our little corner of the world ready for a $35 Chardonnay? All the tasters seemed to think so—mind you, they weren’t paying!—and there was consensus: this is one damn fine wine. It’s a curious mix of citrus and caramel, and some unexpected tartness to the tip of the tongue; rich and round and pleasantly oily but not overly oak-forward, which some of us liked more than others. For a special dinner, for sure.Summerhilll Cipes Blanc de Noirs 1999 ($35) Summerhill Pyramid Winery is the only winery in this country that stockpiles aged bubbles and releases them on a regular basis. This one is 100 percent Pinot Noir: crystal-bright, brisk, and almost brittle, excellent acidity; mellow but fresh tasting; an unusual treat. It obviously enjoyed its long stay in the pyramid home and grew up just fine. Set it up alongside three or four other elder Cipes sparklers and compare.Laughing Stock Portfolio 2004 ($37) This is the one that started the run; the new vintage is Rubenesque and lovely after 20 months in barrel. The mix is 55 percent Merlot, 35 percent Cabernet Franc from 11-year-old vines, and 10 percent Cabernet Franc from nine-year-olds. The Portfolios keep getting better and bigger, vintage after vintage, and while we all thought it was sold-out from the get-go, the winery has just announced a dividend: a few cases were “found” and are available direct from the winery. There’s your excuse for an autumn journey to the Naramata Bench.