From suspension bridges to a walk through the city's history, some of our top tourist traps are well worth a look

There are some things too shameful for even the most resilient Vancouverite to admit in public: that sushi makes you sick, for example, or that you have no intention of ever doing the Grouse Grind, or-even worse-that you've long harboured a secret desire to stagger across the Capilano Suspension Bridge.

Come on, fess up: if you've lived in this city for more than six months, there's at least one tourist ghetto out there you're just itching to explore. This year, Tourism Vancouver anticipates more than 8.6 million tourists will pay us a visit, and during their typical three-day stay, about a third of them will take in at least one of the city's top tourist attractions, according to Business in Vancouver. And though we locals have generally accepted Stanley Park and Granville Island to be more "ours" than "theirs", we have quietly conceded other ground-the better part of Gastown, for example-to the camera-toting hordes. Who hasn't wanted to venture into that unknown visitor territory to find out what-if anything-we might be missing?

This past summer I cautiously mentioned to an old friend that I wanted to spend some time in my own back yard, maybe doing some of those crazy tourist things like-oh, I don't know-taking a James Bond-style gondola up a mountain or whooping it up on a swinging bridge. To my surprise, the idea of unleashing her long-repressed inner tourist had my friend trilling with delight: "That would be so fun! I'll come with you!"

And so we set off one sunny Saturday for the crowded, polyglot world of North Vancouver's Capilano Suspension Bridge, the Lower Mainland's oldest attraction (1889) and its second most popular (after the Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Centre).

They come by the busload from around the world to walk this shaky bridge. Pierre Trudeau did it; Marilyn Monroe did it; even Mick Jagger and Margaret Thatcher did it-and doubtless they were grinning the entire time. It is quite simply a panic crossing the 137-metre-long bridge as it shudders 70 metres above the rocky canyon floor. My heart was hammering when I got to the other side, and I could actually feel my smile muscles being tested.

Unfortunately, that three-minute (six if you count the return trip) surge of adrenaline wasn't quite enough to sustain our enthusiasm for the place. The attraction has recently made a huge investment in a series of smaller suspension bridges that allow visitors to wander through a patch of evergreens at bird level, 30 metres above the forest floor. And though this so-called Treetops Adventure was briefly entertaining, it's unlikely to capture the imagination of a long-time West Coaster. In this part of the world mighty trees are ubiquitous, and these were hardly mighty trees. We actually spent more time in the gift shop, marvelling at the cheesy faux-Native souvenirs, than we did in the treetops.

In the end, Capilano is, as my friend observed, "a place for people who like their park experience packaged". If that isn't you, then head for the shorter, quieter suspension bridge at nearby Lynn Canyon Park. It's nowhere near as big a buzz, but it's closer to nature with its leafy seclusion and roaring waters, it'll make your kids and your visiting aunt smile-and it won't cost you a penny.

Grouse Mountain was, on the other hand, worth every cent-so good, in fact, that I would consider purchasing an annual pass to take advantage of all that's on offer throughout the year. This abundance of entertainment came as a complete and refreshing surprise; the last time I was up the mountain, as a child, was memorable for its lack of diversions. At the height of summer I was, I recall, fantastically bored.

It was that memory that caused me to purchase only a two-hour parking ticket at the bottom. I figured we'd just make a quick up-and-down journey, but we ended up staying for more than four hours and then only left because of a prior commitment.

The tram ride is dramatic, rising 1,100 metres in eight minutes and offering (on a clear day) stunning panoramic views of the city and beyond. At the top-and assuming you're not there to ski-several options are included in the tram price: Born to Fly, a slick and uplifting Expo 86-style film highlighting beautiful B.C.; a rollicking lumberjack show which runs until mid-October; a rare opportunity to see orphaned grizzlies up close at the endangered-wildlife refuge; and plenty of scenic hiking trails. On Friday nights, bands such as Wide Mouth Mason play indoors or outdoors on the mountain, and an annual Skyride pass-$89.95 for an adult-would make it a no-brainer to attend this on-going musical series.

We whiled away the afternoon on the terrace of Altitudes Bistro, one of several sophisticated eateries on the mountain, admiring the unfamiliar mountain vistas and savouring a $10 lunch of pulled pork and corn bread that was one of the best restaurant meals I've had this year. When we came down from Grouse-well, we came down. We had felt a bit giddy at the peak, as if we'd been transported a million miles from the banalities of our everyday lives.

A week later, it was the same way, only this time at sea level. With a nudge, my old mom, who has lived in Vancouver since the '60s, was finally indulging her inner tourist on a harbour cruise to the far end of Indian Arm, east of the Second Narrows Bridge.

We boarded the Harbour Princess in Coal Harbour on a morning that threatened rain, and settled in at a linen-covered table for two with a clear view of the passing landscape. We helped ourselves to an outstanding salmon buffet, sipping wine as the skyline slipped from view and the banks of the arm closed in on us in a lush green embrace.

We ventured to the top deck, where we met visitors from England and Germany and Taiwan; we took their photos in front of scenic backdrops and they returned the favour, amused to discover we were locals. The golden oldies blaring in the background tested our patience at the end of four hours, but the ongoing historic commentary was apprec--iated. We laughed to learn the West End went for a dollar an acre in the 1890s.

When we disembarked at 3 p.m., we had talked more, and more intimately, than we had in a long time; at $54.95 per person including the meal, this relaxing mini-cruise is the perfect pastime for friends or families of all ages looking to spend quality time together.

I reluctantly agreed to wrap up the day at Storyeum in Gastown. I had visited the live storytelling revue when it first opened in 2004, and I was so embarrassed by the ponderous, black-and-white interpretation (aboriginals good, white settlers bad) of complex historical issues that I could never bring myself to recommend it. But Mom had heard the show had recently been revised and wanted to see it.

In short, I loved it. The lively musical-theatre production-which runs 65 minutes instead of the previous 80-now moves at a brisk pace, and the seven historical episodes (from pre-contact to post-WWII) are performed with far more energy and humour. The new show celebrates Vancouver's multiculturalism, and ends with a video sequence featuring notable locals such as Terry Fox that left everyone around me brushing away tears.

This is unquestionably the Disney--fied version of B.C.'s history: fun, colourful, inoffensive. But remember the way you felt when you went to Disneyland and saw It's a Small World for the first time? You wanted to hug everyone in your path. Love thy neighbour-it's something to reflect on as you leave behind Vancouver's fanciful past and confront its challenging present begging on the streets outside. -

ACCESS: Capilano Suspension Bridge: 604-985-7474, www.capbridge.com/. Hours: 9 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. until October 10; until 5 p.m in winter. Rates with proof of B.C. residency: $22.95 for adults; $16.50 for seniors and students; $12.50 for youths; $6.25 for children aged six to 12; free for children five and under. Add $2 and upgrade your ticket to an annual pass.

Grouse Mountain: 604-980-9311, www.grousemountain.com/. Open 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. Rates: $28.95 for adults; $27.95 for seniors; $16.95 for youths; $10.95 for children; free for children four and under. Annual family pass $189.95.

Harbour Cruises: 604-688-7246, www.boatcruises.com/. Times and rates vary by cruise; call for info.

Storyeum: 604-687-8142, www.story--eum.com/. Open Tuesday to Friday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday to Monday 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Rates: $21.95 for adults; $18.95 for seniors and students; $15.95 for children aged six to 12; free for children five and under. Annual family pass $109.95.