In January 2004, Graham Ling walked into his boss's office
after lunch and announced that he was leaving.
"But it's only 2 o'clock," came the reply. "What about the
[name of company] account?"
"I don't care. You don't understand," Ling replied. "I'm
leaving the company. I can't take this anymore. I need to do
something else."
"What are you going to do?"
"I think I'm going to open a clothing store."
"Yeah? You and whose army?"
Guerrilla tactics ensued. Ling enlisted a scrappy squadron of
unpaid recruits-his girlfriend and some buddies-and cocked a
snoot at the world's suits. He mobilized the entrepreneurial
marketing smarts he'd learned working in retail management and
corporate sales, and a DIY attitude copped from a couple of years
in the topsy-turvy local film industry, and finally realized his
long-held dream. Last month, after Ling and his crew spent
several weeks pulling all-nighters painting, hammering, and
putting in a hardwood floor, the former Galloway's specialty-food
store was transformed into You and Whose Army?
Since YAWA opened its doors at 929 Denman Street, it has been
doing brisk business selling very cool shirts, jackets, and jeans
for guys, and sporty womenswear, without any advertising or
promotion. Walk-in traffic along the West End's bustling,
cosmopolitan thoroughfare is pretty healthy these days, as all
those high-end condos from Yaletown to Coal Harbour fill up.
"I had one guy walk in one Saturday night at 11 just when I
was about to close. He dropped $900," says the easygoing, affable
Ling, chatting in his breezy, whitewashed, uncluttered store one
sunny afternoon. "Another night a guy knocked on the door around
midnight while I was cleaning up. He wanted to get something to
wear out clubbing."
We're sitting on a spacious black leather couch in front of a
wall-mounted flat-screen TV Ling installed to show style-related
films and videos. Nearby, Ling's girlfriend, Jackeline, sticks
price labels on new stock.
Ling is one tall drink of water, and rake-thin. Dressed in
trendy Jean Paul Da'mage jeans, white shoes based on
racing-driver footwear from the '70s, and a light-brown pinstripe
Full Circle jacket over a hoodie and a pink T, he's a walking,
talking, endorsement of the contemporary menswear carefully
draped in his artfully designed store.
"I wanted an art-gallery atmosphere. I only order limited
numbers of each item and never duplicate designs. Once a certain
shirt is gone, it's gone, and I replace it with something
new."
Ling hopes to develop a regular clientele, and one way to do
that is to ensure that there is always something new to look at
and try on. Most of his stock comes from small independent labels
in London, Montreal, New York, and L.A. Ling cherry-picks designs
that are hard to find elsewhere in Vancouver. If his store's name
prompted me to walk in, his taste in clothes coerced me to stick
around.
From Jean Paul Da'mage, a label out of New York, Ice,
Redemption, and Rekko jeans for men ($240) offer contemporary
styling with a shelf life. Appliqués, deconstructed stitching,
and studs are very popular, but less is definitely more. Too much
flash quickly grows tired. It's better to go for something
well-constructed with just a bit of funky detailing. Da'mage fits
the bill, plus the company's Web site (jp damage.com/) has the
sexiest Flash intro of any jean company I've seen.
Electric, multicoloured stripes adorn dressy-casual cotton
shirts by Montreal's Haight & Ashbury ($79). The Summer of
Love meets sophisticated tailoring in these darted, form-fitting
shirts.
"Haight & Ashbury usually produces about 200 shirts from a
ream of fabric, which they never repeat," says Ling, adding, "I
try on all the menswear myself before I make an order."
Fitted cotton shirts from MAAC of London ($120) carry through
the '60s theme, with vivid overlapping patterns and sleek
tailoring.
Cotton hoodie blazers ($195) by London's Full Circle really
suit Vancouver style. The hoodie-and hoodie sleeves-are built
into the jacket, perfect for a summer evening out on the town.
Pink, blue, and black cotton polo shirts ($60) from American
Apparel, and pastel Firetrap polo shirts with contrasting piping
along the seams and printed graphics on the back ($70)
acknowledge one of the summer's biggest trends. On cooler nights,
these tops can be accented with an ecru or black leather jacket
from Montreal's Dekker ($395), equipped with double zippers so
that you can adjust the size.
YAWA'S everchanging stock means that you never know what
you're going to find when you walk through the door. One thing
you can count on is service.
"I think good service in Vancouver is a challenge. I won't
tell someone that something looks good if it doesn't," says Ling,
who considers himself a style consultant, not just a salesperson.
"I'm not here because I have to be. I spent 10 years doing things
I didn't like. I got sick of the conservative environments, and
all the corporate lingo, like planograms for retail-store design.
I'm here because I want to be. I'm having fun."
In the near future, YAWA hopes to present exhibits by local
artists and fashion shows for clients. Ling is also very open to
looking at clothes by local independent designers. And of course,
new style recruits are always welcome.