Big Night stories from Vancouver restaurants

For our Golden Plates best restaurants issue, restaurateurs share their best memories—and some they’d rather forget
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Restaurateur Emad Yacoub will never forget one particular night last October at Coast Restaurant. The place was packed, and a young woman was celebrating her 19th birthday with a small group of friends. Most were seated with their backs to a wine cellar that divided their table from the next one.

On VIPs'}

"I get politicians in here and I don’t care. Excuse me, you’re just a politician; I pay your salary. I’m telling you you’re going to get your coffee; you’re going to get your coffee. If I’m going to pay your wages then you’re going to come in here and pay my wages and do what I tell you to do."
Patrick Savoie, owner
The Elbow Room

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Besides being the Cactus Club’s food-concept architect, Feenie also does private catering through Cactus. In October, he cooked for Bono and the Edge at a private residence. He was given a list of ingredients, and arrived equipped to make whatever the two desired. They started with sushi and moved on to a shepherd’s pie with duck confit for Bono and more fish for the Edge. Afterward, they invited Feenie to share a bottle of wine.

A self-professed U2 fan, Feenie admits to having been “a bit intimidated” by the pair but says they were “unbelievably nice”. “At the end of the day, they’re people,” he says of VIPs in general. “I think what they don’t like is when you get too uptight. I try not to think about it too much.”

Executive chef Dale MacKay has VIP guests regularly at Lumií¨re. A recent party included Jenna Bush; her cousin, model Lauren Bush; and David Lauren, son of fashion designer Ralph. “We don’t make a big deal of it,” he says. “We treat everybody exactly the same. We make a definite point to not make them feel uncomfortable by overserving them or overdoing it.”

Although MacKay knew the group was coming in, he didn’t modify his menu. “I don’t whip out the caviar or the truffles or anything like that”¦I think they get that treatment everywhere,” he says. Cooking for famous people doesn’t faze him, as he says their tastes aren’t necessarily different from or better than anyone else’s.

{sidebar title='Golden Plates 2010'}

Golden Plates 2010 winners' list

Big Night stories from Vancouver restaurants

Restaurant insiders tell where they really eat

Chambar inspires its alumni

Top this—pizzas with a touch of gourmet

Next train: Richmond for Chinese food

B.C. restaurant staff brace for HST impact

Find great house wines at these Vancouver restaurants

Vancouver restaurants give back to the community

Foodie fantasies: readers share their dream trips

Cheap eats: where the industry insiders go

Underrated restaurants: Vancouver industry insiders tell all

{/sidebar}

MacKay has cooked at both Elton John’s and David Beckham’s houses, and alongside chef Gordon Ramsay. But his most high-pressure dinner was when Lumií¨re was in the process of partnering with Daniel Boulud. MacKay was to cook dinner for the star chef, who was arriving from New York with an entourage of colleagues.

“It was the first time Daniel had ever tasted my food or seen my food,” MacKay explains. “It wasn’t just him; it was him and six very accomplished French chefs, and I’m cooking French food and I’m from Saskatchewan.”

To complicate matters, MacKay’s son was living in Nanaimo at the time, and MacKay had to be there for parent-teacher interviews. So he took a floatplane to and from Nanaimo that morning and started preparing five nerve-racking courses in the afternoon. “Essentially, I was kind of cooking for my job,” he says. Boulud must have been impressed, because MacKay was kept on as executive chef.

West Restaurant also sees its share of VIPs. Recently, executive chef Warren Geraghty cooked for British royal Princess Anne, whose party included Olympic rower Sir Steve Redgrave and English rugby coach Sir Clive Woodward. “It was a bit of a mind-blow,” says Geraghty, who is British. “I’m a big fan of the monarchy, and I’m a huge rugby fan, and I’m a big Steve Redgrave fan, so all in one night, it was pretty overwhelming.”

Protocol dictated that a health inspector observe the preparation of the Princess’s meal. Geraghty had to cook two of each dish, with one being retained for official analysis. He was required to cook all meat and fish thoroughly, so an arctic char dish that included gravlax was “vetoed immediately. She was only allowed to have fresh salmon cooked all the way through.”

Chef Pino Posteraro recalls a similar experience at Cioppino’s. In February, U.S. vice president Joe Biden came in with his kids. “The funny thing is that if his wife was there, protocol would call for the health inspector to check her food as well,” he says. “But they don’t require [inspectors] to do the same thing for his three kids. Could you imagine?”

At Le Crocodile, owner Michel Jacob takes celebrity visits in stride. But one incident years ago did cause him to break a sweat.

Steven Spielberg, Kate Capshaw, and Elle Macpherson had just finished dinner late one evening. Macpherson asked if it would be okay if she smoked a cigar. Since the restaurant was nearly empty, Jacob agreed.

Le Crocodile’s policy is to never alert the press to celebrity visits. But several days later, Jacob got an irate phone call from Macpherson’s Los Angeles agent. She was outraged that a Vancouver gossip columnist had reported that Macpherson had enjoyed a stogie at Le Crocodile and accused Jacob of calling the newspaper.

After some investigating, Jacob determined that a waiter had casually mentioned the evening to a bartender over a drink somewhere else and the bartender had called the press. Jacob phoned the agent and reiterated the fact that his restaurant wasn’t to blame, noting that it was Macpherson’s choice to light up.

“Why are you so upset?” he asked the agent. “She said, ”˜Well, Elle Macpherson is a spokesperson for cancer in Australia.’ ”

Brushes with celebrity
All kinds of restaurants, not just fine-dining establishments, have been touched by fame. Elbow Room owner Patrick Savoie reports that when Goldie Hawn came into the restaurant—which takes pride in its “abusive service”—she was ordered to get her own coffee like everyone else. She was a great sport, “just laughing at everything”.

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“I still can’t confirm or deny if U2 has been to the Irish Heather. I sort of prefer to say that Bono doesn’t drink Guinness, he drinks whiskey—but I could have read that of course. But I’ve been told that if they had turned up and I had confirmed that, then they would never come back again.”
Sean Heather, proprietor
Irish Heather

“When we got in the elevator you could already smell the dope, and by the time we got to their floor it just reeked”¦the room looked like my basement in high school, it was so thick full of pot smoke”¦.He [Snoop Dogg] had this big fucking canon joint in his hand, and he handed it to me. And I hadn’t smoked in like, 15 years, but it’s like if Keith Richards hands you a bottle, you take a pull—it doesn’t matter, it’s just something you have to do. So we took it and we stood there for a little bit looking a bit awkward and very, very white.”
Tyson Reimer, chef and owner
Deacon’s Corner
, on delivering pancakes to Snoop Dogg at his Vancouver hotel room

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Poly Alexandris, co-owner of Apollonia Greek Restaurant, remembers separate visits from Hawn, Sarah McLachlan, and My Big Fat Greek Wedding star Nia Vardalos.

Sports fan Aftab (Mario) Khan was thrilled when members of a dozen or so different NHL teams filled his restaurant, Ciao Bella, one night, along with coach Mike Keenan. And Karen Barnaby, now chef at the Fish House in Stanley Park, once cooked for Russian ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev and was later introduced to him while he was swimming naked in a pool. “I’m not going to ask a naked guy in a pool if he enjoyed his meal,” Barnaby says of the meeting, “but he actually said he really enjoyed it.”

Simon Cotton, who co-owns the Reef, recounts how Nelly Furtado celebrated her birthday at the restaurant’s Main Street location several years ago. Furtado’s handler “came in all clandestine and said, ”˜Nelly Furtado, can you do a table of eight?’ And we said, ”˜Okay, no problem,’ ” Cotton recalls. “She scurries in with dark glasses on, sits in the back.”¦No one batted an eye.”

But then one of her guests spilled a mango cocktail at her feet. Cotton went to clean it up and welcomed her to the restaurant on his hands and knees. “It was a funny, memorable moment.”¦I have some deep reggae going on, some dub happening, and then I’m at the feet of Nelly Furtado”¦cleaning up a mess on the floor.”

George Katagai, general manager at Miku restaurant, says nobody in his restaurant fully appreciated his celebrity encounter. That’s because his chefs are from Japan, and his staff members are quite young. “We had Tony Bennett and his daughter join us for dinner,” he says. “I got extremely excited, but I couldn’t share that with anyone because they had no idea who Tony Bennett was.”

Crystal Moon, assistant restaurant manager at Elixir and Opus Bar, remembers one particular autograph seeker at the hotel. A girl of about seven was seated with her party near Canadian Olympic skeleton gold medallist Jon Montgomery. “The little girl brought the book she had with her over to him and she says, ”˜Excuse me, sir, do you mind autographing my book for my grandpa?’ And he [Montgomery] was gracious and asked her what her grandpa’s name was. And she looks at him and says, ”˜It’s Grandpa.’ And he just laughed and wrote it out ”˜To Grandpa’. ”

Not much autograph signing happens at Vij’s. The restaurant doesn’t take reservations because Vikram Vij wants everyone to be treated equally, and he makes no exceptions for VIPs. Vij tells the Straight that he gets calls every day from celebrities, chefs, and CEOs wanting special treatment. “My line is, ”˜If my father comes, he waits like everyone else does. If my wife comes, she waits like everybody else does.’ ”

So if VIPs really want to dine there, they must wait with the crowd until their table comes up. Or they can have the rest of their party show up and put their name in, and then slip in when their turn comes—but Vij won’t guarantee a specific time.

He admits that the policy dissuades most VIPs from coming. For example, Quebec premier Jean Charest called at the start of the Olympics, wanting a table for eight or 10 premiers, but with Vij holding firm on his policy, the politicians never showed.

“Nobody in 14 years has managed to skip a line,” Vij says. “Even Martha Stewart came and she waited like everyone else.”¦They came at 9 o’clock at night; there’s a little lounge at the back. She waited for 20 minutes and then her table came up and then she got seated. But she waited for 20 minutes.

“She was super nice, super friendly,” he adds. “I remember bringing her one of the chutneys, and she said, ”˜Is there mint in there? Is there green mango in there?’ And I was like, ”˜Wow, you really have a good palate.’ ”

Vij works nights, and his wife and partner, Meeru Dhalwala, works days. According to Dhalwala, Vij’s attitude toward celebrities frustrates their 13-year-old daughter, Nanaki.

Nanaki is a huge fan of Twilight, and especially Robert Pattinson, who plays Edward. One evening when Vij was out of town, the cast showed up for dinner. The next day, the manager told Dhalwala, who couldn’t resist telling her daughter.

“This was the first time my child has shown any pride in what her mom and dad do,” she says, laughing. “She came into the restaurant and she sat in every single chair of the restaurant, because ”˜Rob Pattinson must have farted in one of these chairs”¦it’s a direct connection to him, Mom!’ ”

When Vij returned from his trip, Nanaki showed him posters of the cast members so he would recognize them if they returned to the restaurant. Sure enough, they came back. “Vikram had no clue who they were,” Dhalwala relates. “Vikram said [to the cast], ”˜You know what, kids, you’re just going to have to go in the back [to the lounge].’ ”

When Nanaki found out the next day, “she freaked out with a big smile on her face but total frustration.”¦She just couldn’t believe that her father wouldn’t have phoned her.” Adding insult to injury, Vikram kept calling Pattinson “Andrew from Twister” rather than Edward from Twilight.

“Even if he had known [who the stars were], there is no way he would have phoned,” Dhalwala explains. “Because that’s the rule, even with the staff: you are not to acknowledge a celebrity for being a celebrity because probably they’ve come to have dinner to get away from the whole thing.”

Dhalwala can relate to her daughter’s frustration, even if her husband can’t. “Think about it, when you were 13 and whoever you were in love with,” she says. “Just think about if your father actually met them and just didn’t bother even getting an autograph for you!”

Equipment Breakdowns, Human Meltdowns
Robert Belcham, proprietor of Campagnolo and Refuel, will never forget an evening at Campagnolo shortly after it opened on a rough part of Main Street near the train station. The restaurant was three-quarters full when a passerby kicked in the front window, shattering the glass into large shards. “Thank the Lord there was nobody sitting [near it],” Belcham says. Nobody was hurt.

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"When you have a buffet you do bring out a different crowd.”¦This party of nine decided to take the whole platter to their table.”¦And we have to go up there and say, ”˜No, no, it’s not for you; it’s for everyone.’ And that happens weekly.”¦They’re not all a bunch of Neanderthals at the Friday night buffet”¦but there could be that small percentage that make things colourful.”
J.C. Felicella, Vancouver Community College Culinary Arts department head
Oversees the student-run JJ’s restaurant

“I had this one guy have cellphone rage on a customer who went outside to talk on his phone. He answered the phone in the restaurant, and left to go outside to talk, but another man in the restaurant still got so mad at [him] and went outside when he was leaving and punched him in the nose.”
Alessandra Quaglia, coowner
Provence restaurants

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After the police caught the young man, they told Belcham, “Welcome to the neighbourhood.” Ironically, the culprit wasn’t even from the area—he was a student from Burnaby. “He was a misguided youth, really drunk,” Belcham says. The student subsequently gave the owners a sincere apology and paid for the window in installments over the course of the following year.

At Kingyo, manager Yasuhiro Hayashi dealt with a similar incident when a window was smashed in the middle of the night. “Nothing was stolen,” he says. “Just one bottle of Bacardi. And the alarm went on, so we had to come here at 4 in the morning.”

Equipment breakdowns are less dramatic but just as inconvenient. Shelome Bouvette, chef at Lolita’s, recalls how the power went out on New Year’s Day during one of the busiest brunches of the year. She says she plowed on in the dark, but adds, “You should’ve seen what it looked like when the lights went back on. There were eggs everywhere.”

Nook proprietor Mike Jeffs recalls how his refrigeration system broke down during a summer heat wave. “It was a nightmare,” he says, because it took a long time to discover and get to the root of the problem. He had to throw out everything not once but three times, and he eventually closed the restaurant for a day. “It probably cost me about $8,000 on lost revenue and lost product.”

Then there’s simple human error. “Our guest brought in an ice-cream cake,” remembers Wayne Sych, executive chef at the venerable (and recently closed) Cannery Seafood Restaurant. “The hostess put it in the back fridge instead of the freezer”¦a lot of the front-of-house staff think anything with a big door is a freezer.” When it was time to bring out the cake, Sych discovered the mix-up, and the cake “was pretty much all melted”. Sych found the bakery name on the box, called, and had another one made pronto. “We had it decorated exactly the same. We sent somebody down there to pick it up and the customer never even knew.”

Chef John Bishop has had to save people from themselves. Saturdays are romantic nights at Bishop’s, and one evening, Bishop recalls, “I could hear this background noise from Table 66. I thought it was something to do with the speakers, maybe, some distortion or something. It turns out this man was having dinner with his wife”¦and he’d brought his transistor radio and he had the baseball game on.” To preserve the atmosphere for other diners—not to mention the man’s poor wife—he gently suggested turning it off.

But even this veteran restaurateur is sometimes left speechless by customer behaviour. “There was one lady one night years ago who complained that the forks weren’t sharp enough,” he recalls. “I thought my hearing had gone. I’d spent quite a lot on this Swiss cutlery, and it didn’t strike me as being anything different than you normally would have. I said, ”˜I’m sorry, you said the forks were too blunt?’ It was like a Monty Python moment.”

Olympic Glory, Olympic Headaches
Many of those interviewed cited moments during the Olympics as ones they will always remember.

“The torch was carried right past Simpatico Ristorante, right across 4th Avenue,” says Marino Anagnostopoulos, who helps run the family business. “The restaurant was full—then in 10 minutes, everybody was outside. Everybody—the cooks, the staff, and the clients all outside. And then we were back inside, and I had to think about it like, ”˜Wow, this is only going to happen once!’ ”

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"The real Stanley Cup was here six, five years ago when the [Carolina] Hurricanes won and they all came here—the players, the coaches—with the Stanley Cup. That’s unique. Who’s had the chance to have the Stanley Cup in their restaurant? And people saw it coming into the restaurant so they were dying to take pictures of it”¦that was a magical night. "
Stephan Cachard, restaurant director
Blue Water Café + Raw Bar

“There was crazy energy in the air [during the Olympics]. I'm sure it was in the entire city, but within our restaurant itself, it felt like the entire block was lit up."
Maria Huynh, owner
Chau

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Doug Taylor, owner of the West End’s Central Bistro, recalls how a staff member needed to be on hand to accept deliveries between midnight and 6 a.m. due to Olympic delivery restrictions. The odd hours left room for miscommunication with suppliers: did a “Tuesday” delivery actually mean Monday after midnight or Tuesday after midnight? One unfortunate bartender waited all night for a delivery that never arrived: “I think she slept on the barstool,” Taylor recalls, adding that the rep later dropped off a case of beer for her as an apology.

A lot of drinking during the Games led to a huge demand for restrooms. Justin Ault, co-owner of Hapa Izakaya, says that he got about 50 requests a day from revellers passing by his Yaletown location. “Of the 50 [people] a day, 10 would ask nicely,” he says. The rest were drunk or obnoxious and had to be stopped from bullying their way in. “It was exhausting,” he says, laughing. “I’m still tired.”

In quieter Gastown, however, Water Street Café owner Domenique Sabatino reports “nothing but wonderful people” and a “great feeling of camaraderie” during the Games. He recalls how a table of four elderly women dined next to a single diner, who paid for their meal as she left. “These ladies were just flabbergasted that a complete stranger would buy them lunch,” he says. “That spirit—these Olympics have been amazing.”

Restaurants everywhere hosted victory celebrations. Kirin Restaurant’s marketing coordinator, Serah Chan, reports that Richmond location executive chef Allen Liu was honoured to cook for Chinese figure skaters Shen Xue and Zhao Hongbo. But when the pair were swamped by fans during dinner, they had to take their meal to go. Liu worried that the quality of the food would suffer in transit. But happily, the athletes enjoyed their meal and returned to Kirin to celebrate their gold medals.

Joe Wight, head chef at Locus on Main Street, recalls how Cheryl Bernard and the Canadian women’s curling team came in the night of their silver-medal win and passed around their medals. “To be able to hold a medal, it makes it more real than seeing it on TV,” Wight says. “It makes you really, really proud.”

Marc-André Choquette, executive chef at Voya, was excited when Brenden Morrow came in with Mark Messier, Kevin Lowe, and Bob Nicholson right after Team Canada’s gold-medal win. Morrow actually came into the kitchen and offered Choquette a chance to wear the gold medal. “It was surreal,” he says. “I don’t know how many million people were watching that game”¦and then three hours later, that same person, part of the team, is at the restaurant.”

Dean Mallel, president of the Incendio Group of Restaurants, was at Stella’s on Cambie during the game. “When [Sidney] Crosby scored that goal, I thought the roof was going to fall in,” he says. “The vibe in the restaurant was terrific.”

“It’s going to be impossible to beat the last day of the Olympics,” says Chris Ballas, assistant general manager at Red Card Sports Bar. In fact, he rates February 28 as the best day in his entire service-industry career. “The atmosphere was electric, with the sea of red and white, and you’re hugging guys you don’t know and have never seen before. It was just brilliant, absolute pandemonium.”¦That was a 21-hour shift for me, but I didn’t even feel it; it was all adrenaline.”

Intimate Connections
For some, however, it’s the more personal moments that stand out. Bruno Marti recalls how an elegant restaurant meal in San Jose, California, inspired him to open his Ladner restaurant, La Belle Auberge. “I fell in love with the perfection,” he recalls of the fine service, food, and ambiance. “I said, ”˜We are going to open a restaurant just like that, where everything is perfection and everything is beautiful.’ ” La Belle Auberge celebrates its 30th anniversary this month.

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"We have kind of a group of regulars that support us and they’re kind of a hipster crowd”¦they eat here on a regular basis. And after the Canada-Switzerland game, I think it was a Friday night or a Saturday night, and we were completely dead during the Olympics on that night, and at 8:30 p.m. about 16 of them came in, and immediately the bar was full, and people from outside saw that there were people in here and the restaurant filled in about 20 minutes. That was a great feeling, and it was a great feeling because the reason it happened was because our loyal customers made it happen.”
Andy Crimp, general manager
Au Petit Chavignol

"About a year and a half ago we had a controversial show playing in the theatre, and there was a radical Baptist church [Westboro Baptist Church] in the U.S. that had been planning on coming up here to protest.”¦then what happened was there was about three of four hundred people showed up in front of the restaurant with rainbow flags to protest the protestors. So that was a really unique and kind of a fun thing—the community came together to support the gay and lesbian community.”
Gina Ness, general manager
Havana

“With Go Fish, it’s [the memorable customers are] the old-timer expats who have come from New Zealand, England, Scotland, Australia who actually get emotional about the experience of eating fish and chips and start talking about their childhood”¦To see them react in such a sweet way is all quite heartening”¦They always say ”˜I haven’t had fish and chips like this since I was a kid,’ and we always go ”˜Well, your memory is going on you. This is actually better than when you were a kid.’”
Andreas Seppelt, cowner
Go Fish and Les Faux Bourgeois

"We've got a few people leaving who've been working here during the Olympics, they're literally coming in with their small babies who've been born here and taking pictures with our servers and trying to leave us with their plants as they depart town as everything's been winding up. We take a lot of pride in that, try to have our service match our whole entire vision and just create a real loyal community, both locally and internationally, as it turns out."
Suzanne Doe, bistro manager
Burgoo (Lonsdale)

While they were eating, members of the band U2—in town for a concert—slipped in through the back and were seated at the neighbouring table. Although the band’s presence created a low buzz, nobody in the young woman’s party noticed. When the waiter brought out dessert, the party began to sing “Happy Birthday”.

“Bono stood up, walked over to the table, and started singing ”˜Happy Birthday’ to the girl,” Yacoub says. The group was utterly shocked and onlookers were thrilled. “It was craziness,” he recalls. “There were people screaming. She was almost in tears.” When Bono finished, he gave the whole table concert tickets and backstage passes.

That’s just one of the stories Georgia Straight staffers collected when we interviewed more than 100 restaurateurs, chefs, and restaurant managers. We asked them to tell us about a memorable evening at their restaurant—good or bad, heartwarming or hellish. From celebrity shockers to Bacardi break-ins to sweet romantic dinners, here are some nights to remember.

VIP At Table 8
As head of the Glowbal Restaurant Group, Yacoub can rattle off a list of famous people who have graced his properties, which include Glowbal Grill, Italian Kitchen, and Society. The names include Gene Hackman, Matt Damon, Halle Berry, Hugh Grant, Shakira, Christina Aguilera, and Jessica Alba. “Sometimes I flip through US Weekly and joke”¦”˜If I keep highlighting every person who’s been in the restaurants, probably 90 percent of the magazine has been in our restaurants,” Yacoub says.

Celebrities can be spotted at restaurants all over town. Rob Feenie tells of how Arnold Schwarzenegger dined at the Burrard Street Cactus Club recently. Patrons respected his privacy, but when the California governor got up to leave, the whole restaurant broke into applause.

Poly Alexandris, co-owner of Apollonia Greek Restaurant, remembers separate visits from Hawn, Sarah McLachlan, and My Big Fat Greek Wedding star Nia Vardalos.

Sports fan Aftab (Mario) Khan was thrilled when members of a dozen or so different NHL teams filled his restaurant, Ciao Bella, one night, along with coach Mike Keenan. And Karen Barnaby, now chef at the Fish House in Stanley Park, once cooked for Russian ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev and was later introduced to him while he was swimming naked in a pool. “I’m not going to ask a naked guy in a pool if he enjoyed his meal,” Barnaby says of the meeting, “but he actually said he really enjoyed it.”

Simon Cotton, who co-owns the Reef, recounts how Nelly Furtado celebrated her birthday at the restaurant’s Main Street location several years ago. Furtado’s handler “came in all clandestine and said, ”˜Nelly Furtado, can you do a table of eight?’ And we said, ”˜Okay, no problem,’ ” Cotton recalls. “She scurries in with dark glasses on, sits in the back.”¦No one batted an eye.”

But then one of her guests spilled a mango cocktail at her feet. Cotton went to clean it up and welcomed her to the restaurant on his hands and knees. “It was a funny, memorable moment.”¦I have some deep reggae going on, some dub happening, and then I’m at the feet of Nelly Furtado”¦cleaning up a mess on the floor.”

George Katagai, general manager at Miku restaurant, says nobody in his restaurant fully appreciated his celebrity encounter. That’s because his chefs are from Japan, and his staff members are quite young. “We had Tony Bennett and his daughter join us for dinner,” he says. “I got extremely excited, but I couldn’t share that with anyone because they had no idea who Tony Bennett was.”

Crystal Moon, assistant restaurant manager at Elixir and Opus Bar, remembers one particular autograph seeker at the hotel. A girl of about seven was seated with her party near Canadian Olympic skeleton gold medallist Jon Montgomery. “The little girl brought the book she had with her over to him and she says, ”˜Excuse me, sir, do you mind autographing my book for my grandpa?’ And he [Montgomery] was gracious and asked her what her grandpa’s name was. And she looks at him and says, ”˜It’s Grandpa.’ And he just laughed and wrote it out ”˜To Grandpa’. ”

Not much autograph signing happens at Vij’s. The restaurant doesn’t take reservations because Vikram Vij wants everyone to be treated equally, and he makes no exceptions for VIPs. Vij tells the Straight that he gets calls every day from celebrities, chefs, and CEOs wanting special treatment. “My line is, ”˜If my father comes, he waits like everyone else does. If my wife comes, she waits like everybody else does.’ ”

So if VIPs really want to dine there, they must wait with the crowd until their table comes up. Or they can have the rest of their party show up and put their name in, and then slip in when their turn comes—but Vij won’t guarantee a specific time.

He admits that the policy dissuades most VIPs from coming. For example, Quebec premier Jean Charest called at the start of the Olympics, wanting a table for eight or 10 premiers, but with Vij holding firm on his policy, the politicians never showed.

“Nobody in 14 years has managed to skip a line,” Vij says. “Even Martha Stewart came and she waited like everyone else.”¦They came at 9 o’clock at night; there’s a little lounge at the back. She waited for 20 minutes and then her table came up and then she got seated. But she waited for 20 minutes.

“She was super nice, super friendly,” he adds. “I remember bringing her one of the chutneys, and she said, ”˜Is there mint in there? Is there green mango in there?’ And I was like, ”˜Wow, you really have a good palate.’ ”

Vij works nights, and his wife and partner, Meeru Dhalwala, works days. According to Dhalwala, Vij’s attitude toward celebrities frustrates their 13-year-old daughter, Nanaki.

Nanaki is a huge fan of Twilight, and especially Robert Pattinson, who plays Edward. One evening when Vij was out of town, the cast showed up for dinner. The next day, the manager told Dhalwala, who couldn’t resist telling her daughter.

“This was the first time my child has shown any pride in what her mom and dad do,” she says, laughing. “She came into the restaurant and she sat in every single chair of the restaurant, because ”˜Rob Pattinson must have farted in one of these chairs”¦it’s a direct connection to him, Mom!’ ”

When Vij returned from his trip, Nanaki showed him posters of the cast members so he would recognize them if they returned to the restaurant. Sure enough, they came back. “Vikram had no clue who they were,” Dhalwala relates. “Vikram said [to the cast], ”˜You know what, kids, you’re just going to have to go in the back [to the lounge].’ ”

When Nanaki found out the next day, “she freaked out with a big smile on her face but total frustration.”¦She just couldn’t believe that her father wouldn’t have phoned her.” Adding insult to injury, Vikram kept calling Pattinson “Andrew from Twister” rather than Edward from Twilight.

“Even if he had known [who the stars were], there is no way he would have phoned,” Dhalwala explains. “Because that’s the rule, even with the staff: you are not to acknowledge a celebrity for being a celebrity because probably they’ve come to have dinner to get away from the whole thing.”

Dhalwala can relate to her daughter’s frustration, even if her husband can’t. “Think about it, when you were 13 and whoever you were in love with,” she says. “Just think about if your father actually met them and just didn’t bother even getting an autograph for you!”

Comments (3) Add New Comment
Pauline_A
Wow - how did you interview so many chefs - that is incredible! These stories are precious - you must have heard so many gems! Tell us more - I want the glitz, the dirt, I want it all! Do you have more?
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Pauline_A
These are absolue jewels! Can you post some more of these insider scoops? Did you get them from everyone you interviewed (100+ chefs!) or were the other interviews just fact checking. Please post some more of these interviews - you never get to hear about this stuff. Pretty please?
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Carolyn Ali
Pauline, I'm glad you liked the stories! This was a really fun article to put together because we did get so many great anecdotes. It wasn't just me, but a whole team of staff, who called up all these chefs. All the stories were told directly to the Georgia Straight.

The problem was narrowing down what to put in! The great quotes that I couldn't fit in my article we've put up on the Web here in boxes because we wanted to share as many as possible. We also put a lot of extra material that didn't fit in the paper on the Web here as well. Check the list above and you'll find links to the extra material. (Make sure you click through to the next page of this article, too.)

That's all for the Golden Plates issue until next year...thanks for reading!
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