Portland's Southeast Division Street restaurant scene expands

When visiting Portland, it's fun to get out of downtown and explore the city's many laidback neighbourhoods. On a recent trip, I poked around the Central Eastside industrial area. But while the Central Eastside is just starting to make a name for itself as a culinary hub, Southeast Division Street has long been known for its fabulous restaurants.

Pok Pok drew me to SE Division in 2012, but when returned to the area last month, I was surprised to see how much it has changed. Construction was everywhere on three-storey apartment blocks, and new restaurants abound. Here are a few don't-miss spots.

Bollywood Theater

Troy MacLarty, who has earned raves for his Indian street food at Bollywood Theater restaurant on NE Alberta, has just opened a second incarnation at 3010 SE Division. His new space is three times bigger.

"The restaurant grew out of a need to have a larger kitchen," the chef and owner told me when I dropped in for a look in early February, just days before it was set to open. The Division restaurant will act in part as a commissary for the NE Alberta location, which simply can't keep up with demand.

Menus at both locations are similar. MacLarty said his food goes beyond the typical butter chicken, with dishes that are less well-known in North America but very popular in India. These include snacks like vada pav, a spicy potato dumpling dipped in chickpea batter, fried, and served on a roll with chutney.

Look for more seasonal vegetables dishes to come, plus dinner items such as biryani. "The kitchen gives us the opportunity to branch out menu-wise, which we're really excited about," he said. In the summer, there will also be an 80-seat patio out front.

MacLarty is happy to be part of the expanding restaurant scene in Division. "There's so much quality on this street," he says. "It forces everybody to be on their game."

Sen Yai

Andy Ricker opened Sen Yai, a casual Thai noodle joint, in May 2013 just down the street from his Pok Pok flagship. The cheery spot specializes in kuaytiaw, or noodle dishes. (Sen yai is the Thai name for wide rice noodles.) 

The great thing about Sen Yai is that it's open for breakfast, as well as lunch and dinner. Trust me, there's nothing better than a steaming bowl of kuaytiaw naam kai (chicken noodle soup, above) for breakfast on a damp day. Give it a try-you'll love it.

And don't forget to get an order of the totally addictive patango, Thai-style savoury donuts, which go well with jok (rice porridge). Sen Yai even has Thai coffee and tea, brewed in a sock the way you see it done in Thailand, and served with condensed milk.

This place is the real thing. 

Pok Pok

Speaking of the real thing, I couldn't resist stopping in at Pok Pok (on the same day as Sen Yai!) for its amazing Thai food. The restaurant doesn't take reservations, so be prepared to wait an hour or two. I don't do long lines, so the last time I went I simply ordered takeout instead. But this time, at 2:30 pm on a Saturday, there was just a 15-minute wait. Maybe that's the mid-afternoon secret?

The neua naam tok (grilled beef salad, above left) is the best dish I've tried, and the yam makheua yao (grilled eggplant salad, right) was outstanding as well.

Ricker has just released a new Pok Pok cookbook, if you want to learn his secrets.

Southeast Wine Collective

The Southeast Wine Collective opened in August 2012 and combines and urban winery and a tasting bar. During crush season, you can actually sip wine inside at the 30-seat wine bar while watching the processing action outside. There are local wines on tap, including some from the 10 winemakers that work here, and a growler program is coming soon so you can take it home.

Food options centre on small plates. Dishes include this flight of devilled eggs, topped with (from left) smoked salmon roe, crispy Olympic Provisions sausage, spicy peppers, and roasted beets.

Salt & Straw

This ice-cream shop bills itself as "farm-to-cone" and uses fresh local ingredients--some of them a bit unusual. The Division street shop opened in July 2013 and is the chain's third location (the others are on Northeast Alberta Street and Northwest 23rd Avenue).

Wherever you eat on Division, save room for dessert. The pear with blue cheese (top scoop) is my favourite flavour, made with sweet Bartlett pears from Salem, Oregon, and Rogue Creamery's Crater Lake blue cheese. Not too sweet, not to blue, just...yum.

Imperial Bottle shop & Taproom

Located in the new three-storey building next to Bollywood Theater, this is the place to fill your growler or rest up from shopping with a pint. There are 16 local beers on tap.

It's also a great place to buy bottles of craft beer to tuck into your suitcase. Just look at the selection--all neatly labelled with the whats and wheres of the origin, many of them from Oregon. The staff is helpful with suggestions for narrowing thing down. 

And if you're not hungry or thirsty but just in the mood to browse Division Street, keep your eye out for this sign in front of Rooks Traditional barbershop. You know what to do.