Celebrate International Beer Day with these five summery saisons and sours

It's no secret at the Straight office that I have become completely obsessed with sour beer.

Whether it's fruit-infused, kettle soured, barrel-aged, or dry hopped, I can't seem to help myself when it comes to beer that's been fermented with souring bacteria like lactobacillus and brettanomyces.

These incredibly flavourful and refreshing brews are loaded with characteristics that seem to slowly reveal themselves the more I drink… which might explain why it seems damn near impossible to have any less than two pints.

Sometimes I'll even go so far as to convince myself that that the bacteria—the same strains that are used in yogurt and kombucha—make sours better for my gut than regular beer.

No, I haven’t conducted a clinical study, but I can tell you that after an evening of overdoing it on sours, the expected next day gut rot is non-existent. (Whether or not you believe me, passing this on as truth is a good way to get your health-obsessed, red wine-drinking friends on the craft beer train.)

While sours may not appeal to everyone, I'd consider saisons to be a less tart alternative, and a good precursor for those who are afraid to make the jump.

What’s a Saison, you ask? While slinging pints at Calgary’s Hop In Brew pub a few years ago, Dick, my crazy boss explained it to me like this: “It’s a Belgian farmer’s beer. They basically throw whatever the hell they want in there and see what happens.”

While Dick wasn’t exactly wrong, I’ll try to explain with a little more eloquence:

The first saisons were brewed in the French-speaking town of Wallonia, Belgium in the fall, fermented in the winter, and then served in the summer. Because potable water wasn’t always available, farmers needed something drinkable to keep their workers hydrated. (Early versions of the style were low in alcohol—surely to prevent drunken accidents—but many modern saisons clock in at 7 percent ABV.)

Because every farmer had a different recipe, the only thing that really tied saisons together as a style was the fact that they were enjoyed seasonally. (If you haven’t figured it out yet, “Saison” is French for season.) 

Now that I’ve given you a wee history lesson, here's a list of three saisons and two "starter" sours that I've had the pleasure of enjoying over the last couple of weeks. Many of these beers, if not all, will be seasonal offerings—so if you're interested in getting your hands on a bottle this summer, I wouldn’t wait.

Four Winds Brewing Co.: La Maison Wild Saison

This crip, pale gold farmer’s ale from everyone’s favourite Delta brewery (okay, the only Delta brewery) is a welcome addition to its Notus series. Brewed with wild yeast, this cloudy table saison gives aroma of orange and tropical fruit, but finishes with a slight sweetness that doesn’t overwhelm. At 4.5 percent ABV, beer snobs would call it “sessionable”. I’m going to call it “crushable”.

Dageraad Brewing: Randonneur Saison

If you’re looking for a truly Belgian-style saison, look no further than Dageraad, where everything is Belgian. Head brewer Ben Coli has admitted to me rather shamelessly that he is “completely and 100 percent obsessed” with Belgian styles, so it makes sense that this one, made with malted barley, wheat, hops, and French saison yeast, made the list. Clocking in at 6.4 percent ABV, this slightly peppery and incredibly dry brew drinks like a champagne and should be treated as such. Released earlier this year, I’m not surprised that it’s already medaled at the BC Beer Awards and the Canadian Brewing Awards.

Lighthouse Brewing Co.: Jackline Rhubarb Grisette

I know what you’re thinking: Rhubarb belongs in pies, not beer. (I’ll admit, even I had that thought when this bottle first caught my eye). However, Lighthouse has proven that sometimes the unexpected makes for a satisfying surprise. Fraser Valley rhubarb juice provides subtle notes of fruit and a slight tartness, while wheat, oats and pilsner malts make for a smooth texture that help balance the brew’s active carbonation. Expect weird looks if you take it to your next barbeque, but rest assured that only those who have already been introduced to this saison’s magic will be asking you to share.

Powell Street Craft Brewing: Simcoe Sour

Released less than a month ago, this is the fourth in Powell Street’s Kettle Sour series. Dry hopped with Simcoe hops, this hazy, amber-coloured beer has notes of citrus, pine, and tropical fruit. The hoppy aromas cut the acidity caused by the lactobacillus, making it a good intro sour, and the least tart of the brewery’s kettle series. If you’re an IPA fanatic, I’d start here.

Driftwood Brewery: Cry Me A River Gose

If Dageraad’s Randonnneur is Cristal, then Driftwood’s Gose is Dom Perignon. The Victoria-based brewery has made many a fine brew over the years, but I had to stop myself from falling over at how unbelievably delicious this one was. Hallertauer hops, wheat and pilsner malts, and coriander (you might hate it in your food, but damn, is it ever good in beer) combine with lactobacillus for a sour that has officially been sitting at the top of my list since its release earlier this summer. Bone-dry, citrusy, and perfectly tart, it’s one I’ll be restocking all summer. At 5 percent ABV, you can probably get away with a bottle or three at your next dinner party before being kindly told by your friends to shut up about how tasty your beer is.