Food of the Week | Patio Guide

Food Of The Week

Organic Food Shopper’s Guide

Is organic food worth the premium price? Jeff Cox, author of The Organic Food Shopper’s Guide (Wiley, $15.95), thinks so. Cox’s compact book spells out the advantages alphabetically by product, from artichokes to winter squash, looking at how each fruit or vegetable is grown. He also makes arguments for buying organic meat, dairy, and kitchen staples such as rice. Pro: practical tips, like buy organic if you’re going to zest a lemon to avoid pesticides in the peel. Con: the focus is on U.S.

Abba Swedish herring

Scandinavians have easy summer meals down pat. Lay out some cold cuts, a mound of cooked shrimp, some pickled herring, and condiments like lemon slices and fresh dill. Arrange ingredients open-faced on buttered bread or flatbread. But where to get pickled herring? Years ago, I stocked up in Sweden before flying home to Vancouver. Then I found myself at the Richmond location of IKEA (3200 Sweden Way), and discovered that it sold the exact same brands—and they were cheaper than in Stockholm.

Epicurean Caffé Bistro

Skip the brunch lines elsewhere in Kits and grab a chair at the Epicurean Caffé Bistro (1898 West 1st Avenue). This Italian deli charms with marble tables inside and a wraparound patio with climbing ivy outside. The menu offers one sophisticated choice after another. Try Uova alla Fiorentina, a scrumptious concoction of eggs in béchamel sauce that’s baked with bocconcini in a cast-iron pan ($10).

Celebrate City of Quebec's 400th anniversary with a serving of poutine

As Canada celebrates July 1, patriotism dictates that everyone from coast to coast stand up and eat a hot dog. But given that this week also marks the 400th anniversary of the founding of Quebec City, why not indulge in a messy mass of poutine? Dig into a $5 medium-sized serving at Fritz European Fry House (718 Davie Street). Or, for nontraditionalists, Belgian Fries (1885 Commercial Drive) offers over a dozen varieties—with toppings like Tunisian spicy lamb—for $6.98 to $7.50.

Chef Chopra’s heat-and-eat curries

For those who can’t get it together to pack a nutritious homemade lunch in the morning (damn you who can!), here’s an alternative to expensive takeout. An Indian mom might sniff at Chef Chopra’s heat-and-eat curries (280 grams each), but the vacuum-packed vegetarian meals are surprisingly flavourful. Options include mutter paneer (a rich peas-and-cheese curry), baingan bharta (roasted eggplant and tomato), and Bombay pulav (rice with spicy lentils).

The Bean Factory

Ever tried soy-fortified spaghetti? The Bean Factory, located in Aberdeen Centre’s food court (4151 Hazelbridge Way, Richmond), offers a choice of the soy-protein pasta or rice as part of its meal combos, with toppings like braised tofu or egg tofu with eggplant ($5.42). The outlet specializes in a variety of soy-based snacks, from smoothies to sliced spicy dried tofu.

Big Al’s soul food

If you missed him selling samples at the Eat! Vancouver festival, or just want more of that rib-sticking gumbo, here’s where to find Big Al’s soul food. As well as catering, Al Robinson runs the kitchen at the Ringside Bar & Lounge (lower plaza, 4 Bentall Centre, 1055 Dunsmuir Street). There, the Louisiana native cooks up southern favourites like jambalaya, red beans on rice, and fried chicken.

South China Seas Trading Co.

If you live in East Van, take a look-see at the new South China Seas Trading Co. (1904 Grant Street). You’ll find condiments and cookbooks from all over the world, as at the Granville Island location. Currently in the cooler at both stores are fresh morels and fiddleheads, and you can special order truffles and fresh masa (dig out that tortilla press). An on-site kitchen at the East Side location means cooking classes and food to-go sometime this summer.

Mistral French Bistro

The colour of new leaves, the organic green-pea soup with fresh mint foam ($7.50) that Jean-Yves Benoît makes at his Mistral French Bistro (2585 West Broadway) is like mouthfuls of spring. You can get it at lunch and dinner, served Tuesday through Saturday. Try for a seat on the south-facing patio.

Chris Knight’s Road Grill

The weather man willing, Lower Mainland barbies get their first airing this long weekend. But plain old burgers and steaks are so last summer. Before you fire up the burners, invest in Matt Dunigan (the former quarterback) and Chris Knight’s Road Grill (McArthur and Company, $29.95). Recipes for lamb sliders, citrus-tea-rubbed halibut with orzo-fennel-orange salad, planked apricot Dijon pork, plus sides and marinades galore prove these guys aren’t just blowing smoke.

Provence Mediterranean Grill

We’ve recently hung out a lot with friends at Provence Mediterranean Grill (4473 West 10th Avenue). Each time, we’ve all gone for the trio of antipasti ($13). The pissaladière, salty with anchovies and sweet with long-cooked onion; pesto-y Mediterranean vegetables; farro salad with apple and fennel—it’s all good. Forced to pick only three, I’d say roasted free-range chicken, grilled chili squid, and maybe those haricots verts with the little black niçoise olives.

Artisan SakeMaker

A new ingredient to keep in your fridge, sake kasu is a fermented rice mash that’s loaded with essential amino acids and is high in glutamines (hello? the umami factor). It’s what’s left after Masa Shiroki has hand-made his sakes at Artisan SakeMaker (1339 Railspur Alley, Granville Island). At C Restaurant, chef de cuisine Quang Dang uses the creamy white paste ($3.50 for 450 grams) in what he calls “Japanese Mayo, Part 2”, blending it with honey and rice-wine vinegar to serve with salmon cakes.

Mandala Iki Asian Bistro

Groans were heard when the Kitsilano Café (2394 West 4th Avenue) shut recently and showed signs of gentrification. Sure enough, the huge inflatable beer bottle that hung from the ceiling is no more. The new twig-brown décor is sleek and modern, the menu has everything from izakaya fare and brown-rice sushi to congee and “Chinoise” dishes. The place is under new management as Mandala Iki Asian Bistro, with some of the original staff.

Bike the Blossoms

This Saturday (April 19) marks the first annual Bike the Blossoms, a partnership between the Vancouver Cherry Blossom Festival and Slow Food Vancouver. This gentle meander through the city’s leafiest streets starts at the VanDusen Botanical Garden (5251 Oak Street) at 9 a.m. or whenever. It’s not a race, and you’re meant to explore food stops en route, like Coco et Olive (3476 West Broadway) and Soma (151 East 8th Avenue).

Avalon Dairy

It warms my heart to know I can still buy milk in glass bottles from a 100-year-old farm within the city limits. Way to go, Avalon Dairy. If you’ve never been, head there sometime and pick up your dairy supplies from their small store (5805 Wales Street), open weekdays 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m, and Saturday 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Newest addition to the range (which includes organic milk) is Vitala, which comes from Abbotsford cows fed on wild-tuna meal.