Fall cosmetics trends are all about subdued drama

They say beauty is in the eye of the beholder and this is true for beauty products, trends, and techniques as well. While every hot new style won't appeal to or work for everybody, there are always elements of those styles that will. Something we're seeing a lot of for this fall is a sort of Belle Epoque look. Think Gibson Girl hair-dos, high necklines, long sleeves, and lacy feminine layers. It's about the dichotomy between sultry and demure, a ladylike seductiveness. Makeup is subtle and warm and less is more.

“When I'm doing makeup on someone, I don't start by thinking about the trends. I think about their face and what will bring out their best features, then I incorporate the latest colours and styles in a way that works for the client or model,” single-monikered Vancouver makeup artist Arrow told Georgia Straight Style in a recent interview at an East Side studio. Arrow, a former MAC store manager who's now a freelance artist, has been doing makeup for film, video, print, and runway shows since '97. She recently did work for the indie feature Love and Other Dilemmas, which is to show at the upcoming Vancouver International Film Festival. (Check out www.arrowmakeup.com/.)

This fall, Arrow predicts a matte complexion with soft yet dramatic eyes. “It's all about the lashes,” she says, “They're the best part, the cherry on top”. This season a fluttery, seductive bedroom eye is where it's at, with the emphasis being on long thick lashes rather than heavy liner or shadow. Gone are the days of globby caterpillarlike false lashes precariously perched on your lids. Now there are natural-looking singles and half strips, faux lashes made of individual strands of mink fur and even eyelash extensions. According to Arrow, the best adhesive for any falsies is Duo, which can be found at MAC stores ($10). When using single lashes, which allows for a more custom look, hold the lash with tweezers and use a tiny dot of Duo to apply it to your lash line as close to your own lashes as possible. Place them wherever you want more fullness or length. When putting on mascara, don't be afraid to use a few coats; just let each layer dry for a couple of minutes in between, she advises. Work the brush into the roots and draw the lashes up and out with a wiggly side-to-side motion to separate. Arrow's favorite new tool is the Japonesque Heated Eyelash Curler ($22 at BeautyMark [103-1120 Hamilton Street]), which works wonders on short or stubborn lashes.

Along with lovely lashes, matte lipstick is finding its way back into our hearts. “The idea is to get the effect of a stain, like young, naturally-rosy lips, rather than the wet sticky look,” says Arrow. Matte colours can be drying, so a good lip moisturizer is imperative. Arrow's fave is Roc's Enydrial Repairing Lip Care ($7 at Shoppers Drugmart [various locations]).

For a flawless matte complexion, airbrush or spray-on foundation is great. Arrow recommends Christian Dior Airbrush Foundation (available at various Dior counters [$50]). “The coverage is so good you hardly need concealer. If you get a little overspray,” says Arrow, “just pat and blend with your fingertip or a sponge.”

To put some healthy colour in your cheeks, Arrow is all for cream blush. “Skin tends to dry out in the fall and winter. Powder blush can look powdery, but cream blush applied over moisturizer, or foundation if you wear it, gives a youthful glow rather than a cake-y layer sitting on top of your skin nestling into every wrinkle.”

The matte look doesn't mean all shimmer is out of the question. If your matte seems a little flat, “a touch of gold dust on the cheek, eye, or lip will give your face a warm luminescence,” she says. Whether you're going for a rock, retro, glam, or classic look, this season is about a softer, more subdued drama—strong, but not over-the-top and soft but not wimpy.